CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

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WaterDragonMissle
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CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by WaterDragonMissle » Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:13 pm

My brother recently picked up a CPS 2000 mk2 and a 2500.

The 2500 works well, except the 2000 has a much more laminar flow. Is this because the nozzle selector on the 2500 isn’t flush against the rest of the nozzle? Also, is there a fix to make the stream come out cleaner, or is this normal and I shouldn’t bother?

The 2000 also works perfect except it seems to “lag” a bit during pumping; the movement of water/air inside the pipes and tubing seems to be less than the suction of the pump. It feels as if something is putting a slight clog to the system, but when I separated there reservoir from the pipes, there was no screen (I only have experience with opening 1200s and 1000s, and usually the screen is right in front of the reservoir for those guns).

The pumping lag is negligible though; it is not too much of a problem. Is the 2500’s pumping just smoother because the system was upgraded from the 2000 to flow better? Or do you guys think theres a clog somewhere? Is the 2000 supposed to have a screen in front of the reservoir? Or is it located somewhere else, or does it not have a screen at all?

marauder
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by marauder » Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:47 pm

There definitely is a difference between the 2500 and 2000 nozzles. Take a look at the pictures here: https://hydrowar.wordpress.com/cps-2000/ and https://hydrowar.wordpress.com/cps2500/

It's not just a matter of not being flush or not, but the fact that the 2500 has a second restriction on that flow. I'm not sure how to articulate this exactly, so I will try to illustrate it. With the 2000 you have the laminator: ====| with a nozzle orifice on the end. With the 2500 you have something similar ===|=| but with a second (rotating) nozzle orifice. Even if you take the nozzle selector off, removing the second restriction, the first orifice/restriction/whatever underneath the nozzle selector is still different from that of the 2000 and it's not as optimally designed. There is also the chance that your 2500 laminator contains a little plastic disc for a laminator rather than the straws that are in the 2000. That would create more turbulence.

There is a site somewhere on the internet, can't find the link at the moment, where this guy experimented with improving the design of the 2000. He originally set out to just repair his, but in the process he tried a variety of different nozzles. What he found was that there was no way to make a more powerful yet laminar nozzle than what it came with stock.

That being said, all of this might be moot because these guns are old and your 2500 laminator/nozzle may just be more beat up than that on your 2000.

Regarding your pumping issue. Your issue isn't a matter of design. The pumping system/tubing is essentially the same between guns. The only difference are materials that vary depending upon what factory the blaster came from. Your 2000 probably just has some gunk somewhere or just needs to be lubed.
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WaterDragonMissle
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by WaterDragonMissle » Wed Aug 01, 2018 3:08 am

That helps a lot, I’ll go check the 2000 carefully for gunk next time I get around to opening it up, also for lubrication is it just the pump, or are there more places I should lube up? So far I just lube the O-rings and the pump with silicone grease.

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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by marauder » Wed Aug 01, 2018 6:57 am

The pump is the only place unless you have to open up other parts like the firing valve. Use a good silicon lubricant. When you apply the lubricant make sure you actually place it on the pump skirt/seal. That is the big white section that I repair in this article: https://hydrowar.wordpress.com/2015/07/ ... ir-type-2/ or the rubber piece here: https://hydrowar.wordpress.com/2013/05/ ... al-repair/ . It's whatever piece acts as the piece on the pump itself. The other area you should lubricate is where the pump handle comes in contact with the body of the gun. This area causes friction when pumping. It will be covered up when your gun is stock and the pump is still assembled. If you take off the pump handle it looks like one long groove running down the side of the blaster. Your pump handle runs up and down this groove.
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AmaIro18
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by AmaIro18 » Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:05 pm

OP's brother here.

When the 2000's pump is extended (moved towards the nozzle) very fast, it makes a swishing sound, which seems to come from the valves near the reservoir. You have to wait a little bit before retracting the pump otherwise it seems like water doesn't get into the pressure chamber and it feels like there's no push-back when retracting the pump. So I'm thinking it's a problem with the valves? It doesn't seem like it's easy to replace the valves / tubing so I'm thinkin it's a lost cause.

As opposed to the 2500 where it builds pressure no matter how fast it is pumped

marauder
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by marauder » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:13 am

If you can't fix the issue you can always swap out most of the internals for those of a 2500. They are compatible. The 2000's nozzle is the primary reason its more powerful. I mean, the original PCs were more powerful, but the primary factor is the nozzle.

After Hydropocalypse I ended up swapping out the PC on my 2000 mk1 with one from a 2500. The range dropped from about 53 feet to 49-50 feet, but that's still a good 5 feet further than the 2500 was getting.

I wish Neptune and some of the other modders/tech guys still visited this board. They were very good at repairing these.

Also, unrelated, but if you live anywhere along the east coast of the US we'd love to have you at our community water wars.
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AmaIro18
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by AmaIro18 » Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:45 pm

I'm almost certain that the pumping issue with my 2000 is that the check valve between the pump and reservoir is just sluggish for whatever reason. I'm not sure if that can be adjusted or fixed, so I'll leave it at that since I want both my 2000 and 2500 to be in working condition. I've done some measuring and found that my 2000 shoots 55-60 ft depending on the wind, so even if I take long to pump, the range still makes it a good gun.

We're from the west coast so.. other side of the US lol

Drenchenator
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by Drenchenator » Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:59 am

If the problem is the check valve, there seems to be little that you can do. It might be sluggish due to the spring inside losing elasticity, so it would require a greater force to open (more force needed to compress it the same amount). I don't think anyone has tried to replace the springs inside the check valves, but given the age of everything at this point, I'm not surprised that this would eventually be a problem. If it isn't broken at this point, then I'd say to just leave it alone for now.
The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench

marauder
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by marauder » Tue Aug 14, 2018 2:44 pm

Drenchenator wrote:If the problem is the check valve, there seems to be little that you can do. It might be sluggish due to the spring inside losing elasticity, so it would require a greater force to open (more force needed to compress it the same amount). I don't think anyone has tried to replace the springs inside the check valves, but given the age of everything at this point, I'm not surprised that this would eventually be a problem. If it isn't broken at this point, then I'd say to just leave it alone for now.
There was a member by the name of Neptune, who was active about 3-5 years ago who did just this. He was very good at repairing pull valves, check valves, etc. but he hasn't posted in several years. Unfortunately, the problem with having a small community is that there's less likely to be major breakthroughs or people around to teach others how to do those kind of breakthroughs after they have completed them.
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AmaIro18
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by AmaIro18 » Mon Sep 03, 2018 8:45 pm

I've found the solution to the issue with my CPS 2000. It wasn't the check valve. I posted about it here

soakinader
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by soakinader » Mon Sep 03, 2018 11:26 pm

Drenchenator wrote:I don't think anyone has tried to replace the springs inside the check valves, but given the age of everything at this point, I'm not surprised that this would eventually be a problem. If it isn't broken at this point, then I'd say to just leave it alone for now.
I have in fact, replaced a spring inside of a check valve on this CPS 1500. Gallery & Guide
I wouldn't recommend replacement unless you were 100% sure that would fix your problem. In my case, water wasn't getting through the valve without using a lot of force while pumping.

Given the style of the intake from the water reservoir on the CPS 1500, I shouldn't be having the same issue as you had with your 2500, but that is an interesting discovery! I will be making note of that next time I take apart a water gun.
Last edited by soakinader on Tue Sep 04, 2018 12:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
My friends call me Nader. My foes just run.
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Drenchenator
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by Drenchenator » Mon Sep 03, 2018 11:59 pm

soakinader wrote:I have in fact, replaced a spring inside of a check valve on this CPS 1500.
Wow, great job! I love the photos. I always wondered what the stock check valves looked like inside. I agree replacing the spring should be a last resort provided nothing else worked, but I'm glad that you've documented the process.
The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench

soakinader
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by soakinader » Tue Sep 04, 2018 12:24 am

Thanks, I am glad someone enjoys my shameless plugs at past repairs. I still have so many photos to find that were lost when my imagehost died.
My friends call me Nader. My foes just run.
Photos relocated to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151868511 ... 8741427445
I find 'em, I fix 'em.

AmaIro18
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Re: CPS 2000 vs 2500 questions

Post by AmaIro18 » Tue Sep 04, 2018 8:28 pm

Thanks for posting that guide soakinader, that will be a great reference for check valve repair in the future.

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