WaterWar.net

Scimming through eBay, i found this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/LARAMI-SUPER-SOAKER ... 4aaa8eba7c

This is identical to the Mk. 1 and Mk. 3's colors, except for the blue resovoir. Wonder why the PC and handle are still purple but the resovoir is blue?

I'm pretty sure that's fading/lighting.

But the whole resovoir and JUST the resovoir? And it's all the same blue.

The blue does look too intense to be fading. Maybe this colouring was made. Or maybe it's a repaint.

if it were a repaint, you could see paint-over marks (parts where paint overlaps itself). plus, if it were a repaint, he'd put it in the description. (but i did see one brainless guy selling TWO cps 1000's for just over $10 , so he might have a similar case of brainlessness )

The manufacture of these guns is not and has never been very "standardized". We recognize certain distinctions between series of guns, but often these distinctions are based on the physical hardware or internal design (ie a stronger check valve or reinforced trigger). Stuff like the color of the plastic they use to make the reservoir is probably subject to a bit of variation based on what the factory has on hand on the particular day of manufacture.

While not very remarkable, these off-colored soakers would be a feather in the cap of any diehard collector.

I saw this after I bought that exact gun on ebay

The cps 1200 finally came after almost a month. It was packaged in a crumpled beef box held together by zip ties and when i opened the box the gun was in shit condition. There are at least 5 cracks and pieces of plastic missing. I pealed off the sticker and under it was purple, so I guess the blue recevoir was just weird fading. Luckily the gun works amazingly and shoots at least 40 feet.

Do you guys have any idea for filling the missing holes. Also there is a crack in the plastic purple pc bubble.

Finally..how can you tell the difference between an MK1 and a MK2.

Could've sworn than the iSoaker entry used to have information on the different versions, but I can't seem to find them. If I remember correctly, there's two marks that are the same colors but perhaps the front nozzle cap is snapped on in the first version and glued in the latter, and the MK III would be the one with the silver (instead of yellow) body. Not sure on this though, but I know the back of the pistol grip used to be a snap-on piece but was later made to be part of the casing itself.

If those cracks are critical, you can use epoxy to repair them. Epoxy or Gorilla glue generally works fine for casing cracks. (Never use Gorilla for sealing stuff because it simply won't.) If everything is sealed, it shouldn't be much of a problem, and any discomforts in the grip caused by such cracks can be mitigated with duct tape and/or other stuff.

CA99-I will use epoxy for the cracks but what should I do about the cracked out pieces of missing plastic.

If I were you, I'd give him negative feedback. He claimed it was in "great working order," and was sold as pictured.

There are 4 marks, 2 in yellow and 2 in silver. The main separator is whether the caps are glued or not. Supposedly the unglued, yellow MK1 is the most powerful, but that has not been verified. Supposedly the yellow MK1/2 are more powerful than the silver MK3/4, but that is not verified either.

http://www.sscentral.org/reviews/cps1200.html
SSC MK. chart?
At least I know who I'm not buying guns from on eBay from now on, unless it's a $10 CPS 3200, XP 300 or something ridiculos like that.

Martianshark: i will give him a bad review...now that i look at that picture I think that it was photoshoped.

I still need a way to fill the holes.

I have a yellow 1200 and a silver with both nozzle caps glued. I can't remember how many balloons I've stuffed into both blasters, but my yellow 12k seems to be performing slightly better than the silver one. It's not a huge difference, if there is one, but there are a few reasons I like the yellow one better. (Better pump responsiveness in particular; silver one's pump may have been sealed too tightly as it's still a bit slow after I lubed it, but the yellow 1200's pump became slick and fast.)

Not sure exactly what the holes are, if they affect functionality, and/or how large they are. If they are small, epoxy should fill them fine. If they are large you can use duct tape or something. If none of the missing plastic is essential to the blaster's structural integrity and/or to its operation, it's really hard to give more of a crap about it honestly.