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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:59 pm
by Nick
Ahhhh jeezzzz, I took this beast out for some drive bys, and I noticed as my tank got emptier, it started pumping water out of the front. It only does it when it's nearly empty. Any ideas what's up with it? This is like my main gun, it's extremely powerful and versatile. I don't want it to break! 
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:19 pm
by Adrian
Messed up trigger valve in front. I've got a 2000 that does this that I've been meaning to fix. Check and see that the trigger valve is in solid condition (no cracks or anything), there are no obstructions inside the pipes, and it doesn't stick inside the gun when moving forward.
Adrian
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:27 am
by Nick
OK, will do. Will it be fixable if it does break? I don't wnana lose such an awesome beast
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 10:34 am
by Spinner
Probably, but why don't you ask Doom at SSC, where he's more likely to see your problem and post your fix.
Edited By Spinner on 1109518500
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 11:11 am
by isoaker
I'd have to agree with Adrian. Sounds like a sluggish, problematic nozzle valve. Might just be a matter of needing to check the valve's moving parts and make sure they're moving smoothly. Older blaster valves tend to get stuck open or closed since their joints/pistons stick. Perhaps the pistons just need some lubricant to keep them gliding nicely. Of course, you'd need to open 'er up and check out the nozzle valve as you pull and release the trigger.
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 12:44 pm
by SSCBen
Common problem gets a common repair:
My XP 150 has the same exact problem. The spring that closes the valve shut doesn't close it all the way (likely from age), and pressure will close it. That explains why it leaks out when it's near empty.
Solution: Add a rubber band or spring to close up that valve.
I doubt you would have to open your trigger valve in order to repair this. That would make things a little more complicated than they have to be, especially if you've never opened a trigger valve up before.
That is, of course, what your problem most likely is. If something was stuck in your valve or there wasn't enough lubricant any longer, your valve would probably not hold pressure in the first place.
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 12:50 pm
by isoaker
I doubt you would have to open your trigger valve in order to repair this. That would make things a little more complicated than they have to be, especially if you've never opened a trigger valve up before.
As Doom noted, opening the valve assembly is not a good idea, especially if things can be troubleshot and fixed without needing to. When I stated "Open 'er up", I was referring to the blaster casing and NOT the nozzle valve assembly. Just wanted to clarify that.
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 7:44 pm
by NiborDude
Ah, the rubberband mod. That was my mod. 
Just to let you know, if one rubberband does not work and you put on another, it can affect the trigger rod. When you pull back the trigger the valve may open kind of slowly.
Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 10:01 am
by SSCBen
Another alternative repair (if you're opening the valve casing) would be to replace the sping on the inside. Taking the spring off should be relatively easy if it's like my CPS 2700. Just find the end and spin it until it's removed. Replacement of the spring should be relatively easy if your local hardware store has a good stock of different sized springs.
That would be the best repair you could do, but I will not recommend it unless you are completely confident in your modding abilities.
Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 6:01 pm
by Nick
Hmm, I know this is a big ask, but would anyone be willing to post some pics to show me exactly how to do this? I don't wanna mess it up.
Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 6:11 pm
by isoaker
Nick wrote:Hmm, I know this is a big ask, but would anyone be willing to post some pics to show me exactly how to do this? I don't wanna mess it up.
There's a link with pictures in one of Doom's above posts. "Add a rubber band or spring" above is a link.
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:23 am
by SSCBen
Yes, there are pictures of this extremely simple repair completed. Please note that the duct tape of the CPS 2100 valve is only in place to keep the rubber band a little more centered -- it may or may not be necessary in your Monster X valve.
Not that I want to sound like a snob or something, but when someone gives you a link, please check it out before deciding whether or not you want pictures. This is the second time I gave you a link with pictures and you've not taken a peek to at least see what's up. That is disappointing to me.
There's other similar guides available if you want a better write-up or more pictures. I am getting around to rewriting much of SSCentral's content to be a little more descriptive and use more pictures found on lost memory cards. This guide is planned to have a revision at least.
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:39 pm
by Nick
Hey sorry bout hat, didn't realise there was a link there(was scan reading).
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:41 pm
by Nick
Ahh right, got it. I'll do the mod, and if it don't fix it I'll getb ack to you. Thanks for the help!
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 6:20 pm
by wetmonkey442
I would consolidate your last three posts into one. Helps to keep the board uncluttered.
Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2005 8:07 am
by Nick
How do i do that?
Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2005 8:45 am
by Adrian
I think he's just saying you should post more in one post. Perhaps seperate responses to different people with Re:*Your subject here* or something like that.
Adrian
Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2005 10:49 am
by Nick
O no, I did the mod and it made the problem worse! I dunno if I accidentally super glued the pin that goes into the trigger valve assembly, and now it cant move. I'll give it a smack with a hammer and keep you updated on how it goes.
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 8:35 pm
by vaporizer
Soooooooooooooooooooo....................... Update us. Please. 
