K-Modding - A few questions and thoughts

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Falcon
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Post by Falcon » Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:53 am

K-Modded soakers are supposed to have superior range and/or output when compared to stock soakers. People K-Mod their soakers to give them a huge boost in power and to give them a huge advantage over their stock counterparts. But what's the point in having a large CPS cannon like a 3200 or Monster XL if you have a 2100 that's more powerful? In a way, it defeats the purpose of having a large cannon apart from the greater capacity. You could K-Mod or Colossus every single soaker you have to give a bigger soaker an advantage over a smaller one, but that's a lot of time, effort and money on materials down the drain. What do you think about K-Modding? But anyway, on to the questions.

1. When you K-Mod a soaker, its check valve should also be frozen. Whan the Pressure Chamber is full on a check valve frozen soaker, does the pump just stop where it is?

2. How do you get that darn black cap off the end of the pump on the 2100?

3. What kind of range increase does it give you? (Assuming the nozzle hasn't been drilled larger)

:cps2000:

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Exodus
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Post by Exodus » Sat Jul 10, 2004 4:23 am

Most people like to K-mod their soakers because it gives them more power, although I agree with what you are saying. As for the "darn black cap", I don't know a way to take it off (without sawing it off and epoxying it back on) although I faintly remember reading somewhere how to get the cap off. I'll try and find that site.

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Post by SSCBen » Sat Jul 10, 2004 10:36 am

1) No, not all the time. It depends on the soaker. A 2700 will blow without warning, and a CPS 2100 will just get too hard to pump anymore. Soakers with the trigger valves that are unopenable I have found to be stronger and not need internal reinforcement.

2) I know how, it depends on the type of CPS 2100. At SSC the members have found there to be 3 different kinds of CPS 2100, and 2 different pump caps. One is glued on, one isn't. If it's not glued on, pry it off with screwdrivers. If it is, saw it off with a hacksaw when the pump is fully pulled in. Don't put it back on because it is completely unneeded and there to make opening harder. I really should be adding this to my "Opening your Soaker" article at SSC, maybe to the CPS 2100 review, maybe to both.

3) Depends on how many balloons you use and the nozzle size. Some say that a CPS 2100 with 60-70 balloons can shoot around 58 feet without modifying the nozzle (they also recomend not even touching the CPS 2100s nozzle). On other soakers that may be different. For example, on my 27000 I didn't want to drill nozzles because when you take the nozzle selector off you get a nearly 1 cm in diameter hole. I tested different nozzle configurations, seeing what got me best range. No accurate tests were taken, but my 45 balloons K mod (would have been more but the 2700 has a weak trigger valve) got around 52-56 feet in range. That was however using the one stride = three foot method, not as accurate as it should be.

I'm not completely sure if you read my K modding article or peppers. What I would reccomend either way is going to SSC's forums if you have anymore questions because there are a lot more people there who K mod. Just about the only person here who could answer this, unless Duxberian or Nibordude post something, was me.

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Adrian
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Post by Adrian » Sat Jul 10, 2004 1:05 pm

As a side note, even glued on caps can be removed with a screwdriver and a heavy application of brute strength. I opened a 220 this way, and it was glued shut all over the frame, and both the nozzle cap and pump ring (the plastic piece at the base of the pump) were glued on. Just take some time cranking on it, you'll get it.

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Post by NiborDude » Sat Jul 10, 2004 9:00 pm

It sounds like you have a newer version of the 2100. Unfortunatly the newer ones have glued pump caps, therefore you have to saw it off. That's what I did with one of the 3 cps 2100's that I've k-modded. It doesn't take too long. And don't drill the nozzle. My friend Dux convinced me to drill his 2100 and it ruined the gun.
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Post by wetmonkey442 » Sun Jul 11, 2004 7:56 am

Soon, I am going to be picking up 2 more 2100s (increasing our teams total of 2100's to 6 :goofy: ). I will probably try to k-mod at least one of them. How much power do you get with a full k-modded 2100?
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Post by NiborDude » Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:27 pm

A ton! I've K modded 3 2100's and each one got extra 10-20 feet in range. The power is huge too, one of them had so much kick back it was almost flying out of my hands! And don't drill the nozzle. I know I've said it a million times but it destroyed one of the 2100's I K-modded. The nozzle is big enough.

On friday at a skirmish I ruled on the battle ground because of the range I had. No one could touch me. It's great for a grunt and snipers, and can soak someone really quick. I'm buying more and K-modding them all!
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Post by DX » Sat Jul 17, 2004 7:17 pm

Soon, I am going to be picking up 2 more 2100s (increasing our teams total of 2100's to 6 ). I will probably try to k-mod at least one of them. How much power do you get with a full k-modded 2100?

Week old topic, but I'm adding some good advice.
When you buy the 2100's, you've probably seen my post on SSC, but anyway in case you didn't or haven't bought them yet, get the oldest model. It has a very pronounced, wide ridge running down the back of the reservoir, more so than the other 2 models. This model is the best to k-mod, you should have no problems with it. The nozzle already gets optimal range, so don't drill it. My first 21000 is the one that was ruined by the drilling via bad advice. It was a great gun with amazing range and capacity and was literally killed. Anyway, Range should be around 50-58ft, shot time 1-4 secs., number of shots per tank varies between 3 and 17 depending on your individual gun, and output varies between 8 and 15x.
marauder wrote:You have to explain things in terms that kids will understand, like videogames^ That's how I got Sam to stop using piston pumpers

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Post by Veteran » Sun Aug 01, 2004 11:08 pm

One quick question on 2100's internals, when I pulled them out of the shell the tank easily came off, is that normal?

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Post by SSCBen » Mon Aug 02, 2004 7:34 am

Of course it is, most parts are detachable somehow. Look at the 2100's nozzle, you can screw it off! I did and put some teflon tape on the threads, even though I doubt it would ever have leaked from there.

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Post by DX » Mon Aug 02, 2004 3:46 pm

BTW Nibor found an error with the mark system for the 2100, so it was ditched and we made a new system. The newest one is the one we thought was oldest originally. I made a long post identifying the marks on SSC, I really dont feel like retyping it, look for it there.
marauder wrote:You have to explain things in terms that kids will understand, like videogames^ That's how I got Sam to stop using piston pumpers

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Post by Nick » Sat Aug 07, 2004 5:02 am

I don't understand what people say when they talk about 'frozen trigger valves' and stuff. Can someone explain?

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Post by leprekan » Sat Aug 07, 2004 12:04 pm

i think you mean check valves. when you pump a soaker too much, extra water you try to pump in to the PC goes through a valve that gives out at a certain pressure back into the tank. freezing a check valve is essentially getting rid of the thing altogether, so the gun can be pressurized further. I think there is a pretty extensive article on ssc...

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Post by trekkie00 » Sat Aug 07, 2004 7:18 pm

I'm in the middle of opening a CPS 2100 mk. 2 (revised system). I've heard that it is both hardest to mod, but it also is the most powerful. Why is it hard to mod? What kind of power can you get?

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Post by Falcon » Sat Aug 07, 2004 7:33 pm

trekkie00 wrote:I'm in the middle of opening a CPS 2100 mk. 2

Wait a minute...... Since when was there more than one version of the CPS 2100? And what's the difference between them? ???




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Post by DX » Mon Aug 09, 2004 9:14 am

Nibordude and I found 3 different marks of the 2100. This is my post on SSC describing the marks:

MK1-This mark has a SMALL SEAM, but it is larger than the mk2. This is the oldest model and the pump cap IS NOT GLUED. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. They are very reliable and powerful. Mine got between 14 and 17 shots per tank!

MK2-This is the one with a SMALL SEAM at the back of the reservoir. It has a GLUED PUMP CAP. The pc is slightly SMALLER than other 2100's. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS. This mark is the HARDEST to mod, but is the MOST powerful.

MK3-The newest model, has LARGE, PRONOUNCED RECTANGULAR RIDGES on the back of the reservoir. The PUMP CAP IS NOT GLUED. The pc is slightly LARGER than the mk2. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. This mark is the EASIEST to mod, but is NOT AS POWERFUL as the mk1 or 2.


To easily identify the mark of the 2100 that you are buying in a store:

Twist the pump cap. If it is glued, then the 2100 is MK2. If it moves, then it is not glued and is MK1 or MK3. Then look at the back of the reservoir. If there are ridges, its MK3. If there is a seam, its the hard-to-find and powerful MK1.


I'm in the middle of opening a CPS 2100 mk. 2 (revised system). I've heard that it is both hardest to mod, but it also is the most powerful. Why is it hard to mod? What kind of power can you get?


Well you have to hacksaw the pump cap and rip the outer nozzle in half. Some people just don't have enough sense to know what to do. Some also are afraid that tearing the nozzle in half will break the gun. It won't on the mk2 because the inner nozzle is only attached to the internals.
Power. Hmmmm. The power you can get is explosive. There is more kickback and it is stronger. You get about 10 shots per tank with 55ft range and 2 sec. shot time assuming you did a CVF and around 70 balloons. My mk2 died after the mod from complications that we never able to fix.
marauder wrote:You have to explain things in terms that kids will understand, like videogames^ That's how I got Sam to stop using piston pumpers

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Post by Falcon » Tue Aug 10, 2004 4:43 am

Duxburian wrote:You get about 10 shots per tank with 55ft range and 2 sec. shot time assuming you did a CVF and around 70 balloons.
10 shots per tank? But the CPS 3200 doesn't even get that many shots, and it holds 8 litres! ???

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Post by SSCBen » Tue Aug 10, 2004 8:49 am

The K mod reduces PC size by adding rubber around the balloon and also reduces the number of pumps you can do because eventually it will get near impossible to pump. Basically you get more shots per tank because you have a smaller PC.

That's one of the reasons I prefer homemades over modded guns. The PC size doesn't have to be small, in fact in my CPS gun the PC probably could hold 2 or 3 liters maximum, but I only pump it enough to get around 700 ml.

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Post by Soakologist » Sat Aug 21, 2004 12:50 am

Hey I just checked the CPS 1200 and 2100 barrells side-by-side, and the nozzle sizes are the exact same. The CPS 2100 HAS A 5X NOZZLE! It just performs like a 7-8x nozzle.

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