Part list and final photos below.
A few nights ago me and some friends got together for a weekend long barbecue, Being the Soaker enthusiast I am I told them to get swimwear and I brought my arsenal of soakers (about 9 pre2004 Super Soakers). It was a great weekend but I felt I was missing a vital piece of my armory. A while back I had about 6 Water guns go missing on me including my original Aggressor MKIII Riot cannon. Having an APH blaster is a must for moment's notice Water Wars. Simple, minimal maintenance, highly versatile on the field.
After I dried off I headed down to my local Lowes to get this together. Given a lack for pressure rated 3" diameter fittings at this store a 2" pressure chamber would have to do. If you are going for a cap nozzle instead of a Garden Hose fitting like I chose, you can do what ever you want after the metal Ball Valve.
The price will vary depending on what you use and where you go but I managed to get it built all around $50USD before the Bike Pump.
I ended up getting:
- 5' of 2" SCH40 PVC rated at 180PSI
- 5' of 1" SCH40 PVC rated at 240PSI
- 2x - 2" Slip to spigot 45 Degree Elbows
- 1x - 2" T Slip Joint
- 1x - 2" slip to Thread fitting (Can be replaced by simple Slip Cap)
- 1x - 2" Threaded female cap (Can be replaced by simple Slip Cap)
- 1x - 2" Replaceable Ball Valve fitting (used replaceable for the larger handle size on valve and PSI Rating)
- 1x - 2" to 1" Spigot to slip fitting ( to adapt out of rear T joint to the lower pressure channel and primary nozzle)
- 1x - GHT to 3/4" Threaded Brass FItting (Garden Hose adaptor)
- 1' of 3/4" Metal Threaded pipe (The smallest length available here) (The shorter the better)
- 1x - 3/4" Brass Ball Valve (Chosen for easy movement Open/Closed, and for durability/Ergonomics)
- 1x - 1" to 3/4" Slip to Thread fitting (to adapt to Brass Ball Valve)
- Misc. Hose clamps, PVC T Clamp(For grip), Air Tank Valve(Schroeder valve for air pump connection)
Based on the design of my original gun that I will have to find the pictures of later.
Most of the gun from a profile standpoint is pretty self explanatory in construction, but down where the upper pressure chamber meets the T joint there is a very special design. Each of the 45 degree elbows are counter rotated to come out of the T Joint at different angles than normal. BUT ARE STILL IN THE SAME RELATIVE DIRECTION. This was critical for balance later after the bike pump was attached. (Look at the way the nozzle on the F-35 Fighter aircraft swivels downwards and you will get what I mean)
I decided to tap the Air Tank valve into the end cap fitting through the fitting and PVC so that the threading of the valve had more "meat" to grab into than just a thinner wall of the PVC. (Don't want any fissures on the pressure tank or for the valve to work its way out in the form of a metal projectile) Even though it's glued in as well as threaded in, Safety first!
Also a note to make, This gun uses a pressurized reservoir to save time and simplify the gun. (would love to do a CPH, but this is a weekend build)
The firehose nozzle is something I've had laying around the garage for a few decades so I am not sure where to get them.
=== Final product ===
Quick temporary paint job with primer and marking paint. Orange duck tape to mark primary nozzle and handle.
After testing at 50PSI load (That's as much as it can be pumped comfortably in combat) The firehose nozzle gets me a good 35-30 Foot Range.
The hose nozzle gets a very turbulent stream however, but when smaller diameter outlets are used with caps I am able to achieve 50 feet at 60PSI This is usually coupled with a good 12-15 Degree barrel elevation...
Here's the fun bit, The valve at the rear of the gun makes for the easiest filling for any water weapon I have seen, but has a second purpose. When at half tank and 50 PSI the fill valve can be opened to empty most of the tank in one quick burst in the direction it is pointing.
I have gotten 15-20 feet of range out of this, and is also half the reason the rear of the gun maintains a slope like this. once the water exits the 1" and rear half of the upper tank, the water stays back in the gun allowing you to close the valve and return to normal operation with water left for more use of the primary nozzle.
This time period that the remaining water takes to move around the last of the escaping air gives you about 2 seconds to close the valve before the rest pours out.
All in all, It's a great versatile heavy weapon to use along side a backup CPS water gun. It's size and requirements for pumping makes this a gun for people with a little more muscle to their advantage to use. Most find that Bike pump based APH guns are unruly because of this, but if made right these are downright monsters. She handles great and scares the kids on the block!