Douchenator Project

Guides and discussions about building water blasters and other water warfare devices such as water balloon launchers.
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atvan
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by atvan » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:01 pm

That got cut off by the attachment window on my screen. I rarely if ever scroll sideways.
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Well, not that much soakage.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by HBWW » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:26 pm

The ball valve can also be PVC with a custom built handle, which is a cheaper option but takes more work to do.

A good PC/barrel length to start with could be 1' to 3'. You will want a slightly longer barrel due to the ball valve being used.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by atvan » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:28 pm

I think the brass valve was to avoid having to work the torque arm around the barrel and PC.
DX wrote:In the neanderthal days of K-modding, people would lop off the whole PRV
Well, not that much soakage.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by HBWW » Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:29 am

That's the main reason. I think those valves also turn more smoothly and probably respond better to lubrication. The reason for that seems to be PVC valves not being designed to move as well as they should. (Unlike plastic valves found in stock blasters which always work well with lube.)

However, the metal valves' handles aren't as good as the ones you can build with PVC. Metal valves are more expensive, and I've had problems with metal to PVC threads on one occasion, when a PVC bushing's thread got stripped accidentally. I had to use epoxy to hold it in and keep it sealed after that. With constant threading and unthreading for disassembly, the risk of this happening is probably pretty high.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by SEAL » Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:33 am

I got the parts! Here's what I have so far:

The whole thing, minus the 3" PVC. I'm going to get that later.
Image

A close-up of the valve area.
Image

And here's the schrader valve. I think it's the right kind.
Image

I haven't glued anything yet, but I hope to do so later today.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by Andrew » Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:12 am

Looking good, but you might as well make that long section of 1" pipe a little shorter. Also you may need to use some teflon thread seal tape to seal the threaded ball valve connection.

A WBL is something else on my list of want to do but won't find the funds for for a long time! :goofy:

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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by SEAL » Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:24 am

It will get shorter when I glue it. If I made it any shorter, my hand wouldn't fit. As for teflon tape, DX said not to use it if you plan on taking it apart a lot for storage, but I use my parents' station wagon for transporting my armory, so it should fit in there. I probably will wrap it in tape; in the picture, the ball valve isn't screwed in tightly; I just screwed it in a little to get a feel for how it'll look.

This project didn't cost too much. It was 40 bucks without the 3" pipe (I'm getting some for free.), and that includes the PVC glue. With the 3" pipe, it would probably be about $50 USD.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by HBWW » Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:36 am

If you don't plan on swapping barrels or PC's, I'd still recommend the over-under design which only requires two more elbows and a little extra line-up work and cable ties, and stores well without disassembly. You'll also want to be careful with metal to PVC threaded connections especially if they're being done and undone often.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by SEAL » Sun Apr 01, 2012 3:36 pm

I got it all together! Here's a picture.

Image

I'm going to wait until tomorrow to test it. It has a 1 foot PC and a 2 foot barrel. I thought about doing an over-under setup, but I decided doing an in-line one would be more ergonomical.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by HBWW » Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:01 pm

I'd advise using cellcore or drainage pipe/Schedule 30 for the barrel to reduce weight, but it's probably too late anyway.

I didn't actually discover I could find adapters to go to Sch. 30 until just a few weeks ago. I've been using cellcore Sch. 40 barrel since then.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by atvan » Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:54 pm

Did you not use primer again? I suppose it is no as big a deal here.
DX wrote:In the neanderthal days of K-modding, people would lop off the whole PRV
Well, not that much soakage.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by SEAL » Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:35 pm

CA99: I didn't want to spend extra money on cellcore pipe. It actually costs more than the Sch. 40 stuff.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by DX » Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:20 pm

OOOOOH so that's why you have the 1" area on the PC side, you have the ball valve opening toward the user. I've been wondering about why the center looked reversed. Usually, people have the valve open away from the user, because it's easier to push the handle away than pull it closer.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by SEAL » Mon Apr 02, 2012 11:32 am

I think it's easier to pull it towards you. Anyway, I tested it with baseballs wrapped in rags (I still need to make some sabots.), and it worked pretty well. I think it shot up to around 150 feet with 60 PSI. I have a question; how much pressure could I safely put into it?
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by martianshark » Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:31 pm

What does it say on the pipe? I've pressurized pipe to 100 psi no problem.

Your CPS 1200 now looks exactly like mine.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by DX » Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:41 pm

That depends on how careful you were to select only pressure rated fittings (that don't say DWV on them). Those fittings are usually rated to the size of the pipe they attach to. The weakest link in a WBL with a brass ball valve is the 3" pipe (beware that a 1" PVC valve is typically only rated to 150 PSI water) . If the 3" pipe says something like 260 PSI at 73 degrees F, note that the rating is for water and not air. To be super conservative, I would say to divide it by 2 when the weather is optimal (like 60-80 degrees). Thus, you would not exceed 110 PSI in those conditions. At 50-60 degrees I would divide by 3, 40-50 I would divide by 4, and below 40 degrees use entirely at own risk, I won't even put a number on it. Similar logic follows for the higher temperatures. Someone like Andrew or Ben (ever noticed how we have two Andrews, two Bens, and two Roberts in this community?) could probably give you better, physics-backed advice.

I actually have to redo the pressure chamber on the launcher I've been fixing up since I noticed that the 3"-1.5" bell reducer is not pressure rated. I've taken it above 100 PSI without incident before, but this was probably stupid and I won't be using that part again. My Home Depot used to stock NSF-PW 3" and 4" fittings, but they have not done so in years, so now I need to scramble like CA99 and find a local place that has it. Right now, I am considering making my next launcher out of pressure rated ABS (it does exist, just not in the usual locations). I also checked aluminum, which McMaster has in WBL sizes, but those fittings are ridiculously expensive. Galvanized steel is available locally in WBL sizes, but damn is that shit heavy.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by SEAL » Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:52 pm

The 3" pipe is rated for 260 PSI, but I don't know about the fittings. The endcap doesn't say DWV on it anywhere, but the 3" to 2" reducer does (It was the only kind in the store!).

So I guess I could safely go up to about 100 (Assuming I'd only use it in optimal temperature.)?
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by wetmonkey442 » Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:32 pm

Don't take it above 100 PSI. Don't break that rule.

Also, do you have a gauge on the cannon, or does your pump come with one built in? Remember that the gauge on most bicycle pumps is not designed to be accurate above 100 PSI, because they are not normally used in applications above that pressure. I would say keeping it around 80-90 PSI on warm, sunny days will get you the best results. As DX said, dividing the max pressure as temperature drops is a VERY good idea.

As far as DWV vs Schedule 40 pipe is concerned, I've worked with both (to the point of breakage), and I've never noticed a difference between DWV fittings and Schedule 40 fittings. The big difference comes in the actual piping. You are using Schedudle 40 pipe for your chamber which is good. As long as you keep the cannon within a reasonable pressure range, you should be fine.

One last thing: I know this is going to sound dorky, but take it from someone who has many years of experience working with high pressure pneumatics: Wear ear and eye protection. It might not seem that loud when you fire it, but after hundreds of shots your ears will begin to suffer. Micro-deterioration of the ear drum and associated internal structures will become noticeable after some time. It might not become a problem until you are much older, so be safe and wear some ear muffs or plugs. For people who are standing a reasonable distance away (20-30 feet), ear and eye protection is probably not a realistic concern.

Good luck with your testing, and let us know how your sabot-construction turns out!
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by SEAL » Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:29 pm

I used an air compressor for testing, which was regulated to 60 PSI. I will probably buy a pump with a built-in gauge, used specifically for this. Speaking of testing, I got a few shots that looked like about 200 feet. It's a LOT of fun to shoot.

Thanks for caring about my hearing, but to be completely honest with you, I actually wouldn't mind if my hearing were less acute. I have very sensitive ears, and I absolutely cannot stand noises above a certain decibel rating (Not sure what it is.). Dispite this, I really don't find the launcher very loud at all (At 60 PSI anyway.). As for eye protection, I wore safety glasses when I tested it. When I use it in battles, I will probably have my infamous terminator sunglasses on.
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Re: Douchenator Project

Post by marauder » Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:43 pm

You may not like having sensitive hearing, but I'll tell you what's worse, having constant ringing in your ears that will never go away.
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