Ball Valve trigger attachment

Guides and discussions about building water blasters and other water warfare devices such as water balloon launchers.
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ZOCCOZ
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Post by ZOCCOZ » Tue Jul 17, 2007 4:22 am

I tried to look for detailed article first but I didn't find them. ...Or overlooked them. In any case, I have three K-Modded CPS cannons that have to use a ball valve instead of their original trigger. Since the only modd that I have done are k-mods and tank mods, this ball valve modd is new to me.

So if anyone would have a link of a page that would in detail show/explain where and how to best attach a ball valve to a soaker, that would be apreciated. :cool:

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isoaker
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Post by isoaker » Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:27 am

Attaching a ball valve to an existing soaker? Ben may know more about that, but I really don't recall any specific article specifically talking about mounting a new valve onto a modded stock soaker. Usually, instructions are on how to attach a ball valve onto a homemade soaker. Perhaps you'd need to first attach on a short length of PVC and/or remove the old valve, mount on new PVC securely, then attach the ball valve. What's wrong with the original trigger mechanism, anyhow?

:cool:
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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:35 am

The problem with the old trigger mechanism is that the pull valve can not operate at higher pressures. When the trigger is hard or impossible to pull, the pressure is high enough for the disc part of the valve to be pushed hard against the front.

This is a most common problem on stock CPS 2000s. I get a bunch of people who tell me by email "My CPS 2000's acting weird... you can pull the trigger before you pump it up, but after you pump it up the trigger is rock solid!" Water guns modified to have higher pressures get this problem as well.

Of course, I wouldn't recommend this "repair" unless it was a last resort. It does eliminate trigger pulling difficulty, at the expense of a trigger. Of course, as we develop pull valves of our own, we might make one that operates better in higher pressure by having a smaller disc.

I posted a reply more about repairing the problem at SSC. With that being said, all I said there really was that I'll make the article for the site update.

:cool:

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Post by DX » Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:01 am

Perhaps you'd need to first attach on a short length of PVC and/or remove the old valve, mount on new PVC securely, then attach the ball valve.


It's a tedious repair. On some guns, you also need to saw parts of the casing in order to keep the new valve and nozzle in place. I actually have a picture:

Image

^That is held on by electrical tape and when finished, must be glued very well. I'm not sure if glue will hold PVC and e tape, but it held against the force exerted by the piston of a 1" PPP.
marauder wrote:You have to explain things in terms that kids will understand, like videogames^ That's how I got Sam to stop using piston pumpers

ZOCCOZ
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Post by ZOCCOZ » Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:39 pm

isoaker_com wrote: What's wrong with the original trigger mechanism, anyhow?

:cool:
I need the ball valves for my 2 K-Modded CPS1200s and a K-Modded CPS 2700. The valve on 1200s have a tendency to no longer work because of the incresed pressure of a K-Modd. After 5 pumps the valve and trigger no longer moves. As for the CPS 2700, the one that I bought of ebay came with a completly broken valve(won't close no matter what), broken pump and a cracked trigger. I took care of the pump by using the pump of a damaged Tripple Agressor soaker that I got mistakenly by an ebay seller. So all thats left on all three CPS K-Modd cannons are the ball valves.

This certainly is a last ditch effort to make those soakers work. While I don't mind using 2 hands to shoot, its more the fact that with the ball valve I might have to cut out large chucks of the casings and the 2700 will loose the nozle selector.

Thanks for the image.
This week I will buy some Ball valves and PVC pieces at home depot. I assume thats where I would buy it?
I will probably also make some step by step pictures of the repair for a guide.

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