My new CPS system (Almost Done!!!)

[Andrew]

Well, I measured to how fat I got, it was 37 or 38 feet.

^^^ Sorry, couldn't help myself.

When I was trying to get the bolt in farther, I was trying to screw the bolt in, and that twisted the inner layer of the LRT.

I may be reading this wrong, but surely you didn't try pushing the bolt further in when it was under pressure? It's best to push the bolt in rather than twisting it anyway. Twisting it can make the threads cut into the LRT, weakening it (like if you have a bolt and spin it in you fingers when pinching it tightly).

Next time, instead of a bolt, I'm using a hose barb and endcap.

That's a good idea actually, as long as the barb is big enough, and you layer some Teflon tape over the threads between the end-cap and barb.

About the hose connectors, what are those? I know of hose barbs, but not hose connectors. Could you give a link to one from Lowes or Home depot?

Ask and ye shall receive:

Lowes

This nozzle on home depot looks interesting. As does this one.

[Fishfan]

Oops, I fixed the typo. I didn't try to push it in when it was under pressure. anyways, we found out the inner layer of the LRT was twisted, thus shortening the usable bladder. When I went past the max pumps for that shortened bladder, the inner layers popped. It was also collapsed some to. Here's a picture:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/sdc11263n.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/sdc11262k.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/138/sdc11261f.jpg/
Next time, should I get a 3/8 inch barb, or a 1/2 inch barb, or a 5/8 barb?
Also, I think those nozzles from home depot you posted the link about are hose nozzles, so they wouldn't work. (they might with the right connectors, but I don't want to go that far into it.)

[Andrew]

OK that makes more sense. Does the 1/2" NPT bolt have a diameter of 1/2" (it sounds like a stupid question but over here a 1/2" BSP thread is actually around 3/4" in diameter [the 1/2" refers to the pipe ID])? If so a hose barb of the same OD will be the one you want.

Also, I think those nozzles from home depot you posted the link about are hose nozzles, so they wouldn't work. (they might with the right connectors, but I don't want to go that far into it.)

They say 3/4" and they're in the same section as the other hose connector stuff. Probably best to check them out first though.

[Fishfan]

The ID of the smallest LRT is 3/8 inch, the OD of the smallest LRT is 5/8 inch. Would I get a 5/8 inch barb, or a 3/8 inch barb?

About the hose connector, isn't hose threads different than pvc threads, even though they are both 3/4 inch?

[Andrew]

The ID of the smallest LRT is 3/8 inch, the OD of the smallest LRT is 5/8 inch. Would I get a 5/8 inch barb, or a 3/8 inch barb?

It depends how hose barb sizes are measured. As I said, over here a 1/2" BSP connector doesn't have a 1/2" diameter.

About the hose connector, isn't hose threads different than pvc threads, even though they are both 3/4 inch

It depends. NPT is the US 'National Pipe Thread' standard thread system. The UK has BSP 'British Standard Pipe' thread system. The point of these systems are to enable universal connection of anything with the same size thread, no matter what it's intended for originally (like how all mains sockets in one country are the same type, so any appliance can be used anywhere in that country [some exceptions for various reasons; country politics, safety etc. but that's getting way off topic ]). If it says 3/4" it is likely to be 3/4" NPT, the same as any PVC 3/4" NPT threaded adaptor commonly used as a homemade nozzle selector. To be sure though, you'll have to either ask the staff (in-store or e-mail) if it is NPT, or take a 3/4" PVC NPT threaded adaptor to test it.

[atvan]

I would use the largest hoze barb you can fit the LRT onto. Remember, the largest nozzle can only be as big as the smallest hole between the PC and the nozzle, and the greater flow will boost the smaller nozzles as well.

[Fishfan]

I think I will just go with the 5/8 barb, because I have that on the other side, and it makes the LRT expand.

[atvan]

Oh, derp- for that size 3/8 or 1/2 is fine- they are cheaper and there is no flow on that end.

[Fishfan]

Ok, I just want to make sure there will be no leaks.

[Andrew]

Hose barbs are designed to seal, and seal well, and are much better than bolts. Bolts have threads, and can, if not sealed tightly with Teflon tape and/or a hose clamp, depending on application (talking generally here), let water past, either through or between, the threads (in this application, most likely through).

If you've already used a 5/8 on the firing end, and you know that doesn't come off, your safest bet is to use the same size on the sealed end. As atvan mentioned, you should be able to get away with one of the other two, but if you want to be sure use the 5/8". The 5/8" will also reduce the strain on the LRT when fully expanded, as it won't have as much stress at the point where the it is clamped to the barb, because the diameter of the barb is bigger.

There is a little extra dead space, but you could always epoxy a rod into the hose barb (if it's a brass hose barb, then you'll need a brass or copper rod to prevent corrosion) to reduce the dead space and give the barb more rigidity so it isn't crushed when you clamp it (shouldn't happen, you've already used one at the other end).

[Fishfan]

I have a brass 5/8 barb on the firing end. My dad said a 3/8 inch barb should seal, because the tube has an ID of 3/8 inch barb. The reason I have a 5/8 barb on the firing end is so I don't restrict the flow. Maybe I should go with a 1/2 inch so I don't risk leaking, it reduces the dead space, and it is easier to put on than a 5/8 barb. Also I noticed the pump does leak a little bit. Should I add a second o-ring?

[Andrew]

A 3/8" barb should seal when the LRT hasn't expanded, its' just when you do expand the LRT, you've clamped two ends of it, and it will cause most stress here as you've forced the diameter of the LRT at this point to remain smaller than the rest of the LRT. The smaller the barb, the smaller the diameter you are keeping the LRT to, and therefore the more stress you exert on the LRT. The 1/2" shouldn't pose any real issue, but personally I'd go with 5/8" on each end. Symmetry is almost always the best way to go.

As for the pump, that depends how much. Pretty much every pump will leak a little bit. Realistically, for another o-ring to improve the seal, it has to be a tighter fit than the current o-ring. It will take less effort, and be just as effective, to focus on improving the seal of the single o-ring.

[Fishfan]

Well, I went with the 1/2 inch, just because I didn't want to get another brass barb (Ive already spent enough on this project, I shouldn't spend much more than what I have spent.). They had the 5/8 only in brass, and the 1/2 inch barb was in plastic, so 1/2 was a lot cheaper.
The hose and PVC threads are different patterns here in the US, I'm not sure about the UK. anyways, I found an adapter that would work great for that nozzle you suggested from home depot. I didn't get to go to home depot today, but I did go to lowe's, and that's where the adapter was.

[Andrew]

Good to hear! A completely homemade nozzle never seems to work as well as a nozzle designed as a water nozzle. To be fair, homemade nozzles are usually just end-caps which are pretty bad for laminar flow of water (sudden change in diameter=poor flow and some pressure loss).

As atvan said, the 1/2" should be fine. There shouldn't be many problems with it leaking badly or flying out of the LRT. Hose barbs are designed for similar applications anyway. Still best not to put anything of value behind it until you know it's secure at pressure though.

A for different thread sizes on hose and PVC (I'd guess the PVC is NPT thread, otherwise what would be the point?) over here pretty much EVERYTHING is BSP size/pattern. The only real thing to watch out for is whether or not the thread is BSPP (parallel threads) or BSPT(tapered threads, but same pattern and sizes). At a pinch, you can fit BSPP into BSPT and fitting BSPT into BSPP is no trouble at all. Still shouldn't really mix and match though (Info on all that stuff here.).

[Fishfan]

Taking a little longer the usual, because one of the LRT I ordered was the wrong size. Stupid me. Gotta return it and order the right one.

[Fishfan]

I tested it. I still get approx. 35 ft range, even with a 1/4 inch hose barb. The stream is not laminar at all. I haven't gotten that sweeper nozzle from Home depot yet, because last time we went there they didn't have it.
I saw this on Mcmaster:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#spray-tips/=i5c422
Go to solid stream nozzles.
Would they work? The only thing is they are outrageously expensive.

[SEAL]

These nozzles (scroll down a bit to see them.) that I made worked very well; my APH cleared 50 feet with the small one. You should be able to figure out how to make them just by looking at the pictures. They'd be a lot cheaper than those spray tips.

[Fishfan]

I don't know what that thing you put in the nozzles are. I have no idea where I could get it either. Could you tell me where you got them?
Also, I made another nozzle that has 5 separate streams, although the distancing between the streams are uneven, because my drilling skills are terrible. Also, I tested the riot blast, and it is amazing. I haven't measured the output, but it is a lot! It is around 25 ft range.
Also, I don't think it is very battle practical, because it is quite a workout to pump the thing. I think I will just add a QFD and not use the pump very often. Or just work out more. But the usual water fight I have right now is just backyard skirmishes, although I want to do more waterfights other than just those.

[Andrew]

I know what you mean about the pump. I've managed to improve mine quite a bit, but it's still more difficult to pump than a stock blaster as it needs to build higher pressures (not by a huge amount, but noticeably). The problem is it needs a lot of pumps to pressurise the 2L pressure chamber fully, and (even though it is technically a LPD / pre-charger homemade) it needs most of the pressure chamber volume to support it's main nozzle, hence I now try to use soley the QFD if I'm using the larger nozzles, and a combination of the QFD and pump on the smaller nozzles.

It shouldn't be too hard to integrate a QFD into you're design, you just need to replace the elbow after the second check valve (below the tee connecting the PC to the valve) with a tee, add a check valve and a hose connector and you're done. If you've got a waterstop connector on your hose, even better!

Would they work? The only thing is they are outrageously expensive.

Yes they probably would, as they are designed for a similar purpose, but I wouldn't pay that much for a nozzle. The hose connector I use as a nozzle cost less that £1 and that achieves over 60ft (depending on pre-charge pressure and whether I manage to fill the PC or not )

A hose barb shouldn't really be any worse as a nozzle, unless there is something inside it (a roughly machined edge maybe?) causing turbulence in the flow. If all the nozzles you try (including any of SEAL's style nozzles) give similarly poor stream lamination, then it could be the blaster itself that is the problem. You might want to try a nozzle laminator if you can't fix the lamination otherwise.

[Fishfan]

I could also just screw in an adapter to my nozzle area, and hook the hose to that for my QFD. That is what I was thinking of doing.
Also, what is a nozzle laminator?
EDIT: I found what nozzle laminator is. I think I will try that.