Semi homemade CPS with pieces from a XSHOT blaster

[SSCBen]

Now I'd recommend 3 inch PVC drain pipe. The 4 inch pipe I have in the parts list was too large, causing the bladder to flop around inside the case, and making the blaster larger and heavier than necessary.

[Drenchenator]

Ben raises a good point, though I should point out that whenever I used 4-inch drain pipe, I attached a 4-inch circular piece of plastic to end bolt to act as a guide for the bladder is it expands. That eliminates the problem Ben talks about, in my experience. It appears that I never took any photos of this for my own guns but I did built this.

[Zman]

What the best way to cut LRT

[SSCBen]

As I wrote on the LRT guide on SSC, scissors work:

Cutting LRT can be done with scissors. Cut using the part of the scissor blade closest to the joint for maximum leverage. Cutting rubber is odd--it bounces back and the thickness makes it hard to cut. The part of the blade closest to the joint has the most leverage so it is the ideal place to cut.

You could also try something intended for stronger materials like shears.

[Zman]

so as i save up money to get the parts i have been doing testing with what i have and yesterday i was trying to get a 3/4 ball valve to close with a spring and it worked

here some photos

78BA7E47-AB95-4F22-9402-551A455E0EBD.jpeg (1.47 MiB) Viewed 1203 times

EE66840F-1C00-4A01-A280-11E033920324.jpeg (1.65 MiB) Viewed 1203 times

85F13C8B-70B9-4511-90CF-9888DDD68EB9.jpeg (1.58 MiB) Viewed 1203 times

here a video of it in action
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z6ATLsWGmL4n1bfP8

[Drenchenator]

That's an interesting way to mount the parts! Prototyping and testing are always good idea. I'd take some measurements to make sure you can replicate it when it's no longer mounted to the table.

Could you explain the photos a bit more? I am confused about what the pieces are at either end of the ball valve. Which way is the direction of the flow (which way would the nozzle point)?

[SSCBen]

That's a strong spring. I'd recommend using a weaker spring as you don't need one that strong to close the valve and the trigger will probably be hard to pull with this spring. Also, this spring could be dangerous. Be careful with this spring in the current setup. Your current setup is putting a lot of torque on the screw. The screw could be ripped out of its hole and cause serious injury. When building the blaster, be sure that the spring is firmly attached, preferably from both sides of the blaster.

[Zman]

Could you explain the photos a bit more? I am confused about what the pieces are at either end of the ball valve. Which way is the direction of the flow (which way would the nozzle point)?

The yellow part is the nozzle and the black part is from a host sprayer attachment to hook up to the hose I made it. I just put some pieces together I don’t have much right now. It’s for a fair. It just hooked up to the hose and has a ball valve for shut off. It goes into the upcycling category. If it wins it’s category I get $30 which will go towards the gun

That's a strong spring. I'd recommend using a weaker spring as you don't need one that strong to close the valve and the trigger will probably be hard to pull with this spring.

I agree my robotics team just had a box of Springs and I saw this so I asked if I could borrow it I have to look for a weaker one

this spring could be dangerous. Be careful with this spring in the current setup. Your current setup is putting a lot of torque on the screw. The screw could be ripped out of its hole and cause serious injury. When building the blaster, be sure that the spring is firmly attached, preferably from both sides of the blaster.

I was thinking the same thing

[Zman]

So the original tubing has a ID of 1/4 and OD of 3/8 I need to get it up to a ID of 1/2 this would be the tube between the pump and firing valve tee
Any idea how I would do this

[SSCBen]

The easiest way to go from 1/4" ID tubing to 1/2" ID tubing would be to use a reducing barbed fitting like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/5372K519/

You'll also need tubing clamps the right size for both tubes, as well.

[CDMT]

Instead of using a ball valve requiring that much force to open & close in a quick manner why don't you buy an easier to open and close ball valve like this one:
3/4" PRO SERIES- 2PC PVC Ball Valve (SOCKET) with Stainless Steel Handle and CHROMIUM ABS Ball [Available 3/4", 1", 1.5", 2"] https://a.co/d/dW7Kvue

[Zman]

Instead of using a ball valve requiring that much force to open & close in a quick manner why don't you buy an easier to open and close ball valve like this one:
3/4" PRO SERIES- 2PC PVC Ball Valve (SOCKET) with Stainless Steel Handle and CHROMIUM ABS Ball [Available 3/4", 1", 1.5", 2"] https://a.co/d/dW7Kvue

That was just a test one I am working on getting the money to buy the parts