CPS 2000 Mk. 2 Leakage - This may become a problem...

For questions, articles and discussions regarding water blaster maintenance and repairs.
Post Reply
User avatar
cobralex297
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Post by cobralex297 » Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:25 pm

My CPS 2000 Mk. 2 is experiencing some mild leakage at this time. Pictures won't really show much, so I won't put them up. What I will say though, is that for some reason, water dribbles out of the end of the barrel, once the gun is pressurized. When unpressurized, the gun drips no more than expected, but immediately after it is pumped up, the gun begins to lose both pressure and water out of the front of the nozzle.

Although this does not drastically affect the way that I'll play with the blaster, it may eventually become a problem and I intend to do everything that I can do to try to fix it.

Advice and ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!




Edited By cobralex297 on 1186802779

JLspacemarine
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:45 pm
Location: Canada

Post by JLspacemarine » Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:51 pm

Does the water dribbles out of the nozzle itself, or does it leaks from somewhere inside the front casing?

I had some very similar leakage problems with the same gun (mark2) so I'll be able to provide some good assistance.

User avatar
isoaker
Posts: 7113
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2004 1:51 pm
Location: Elsewhere
Contact:

Post by isoaker » Sat Aug 11, 2007 2:25 pm

This sounds like a typical aging nozzle-valve problem that can be remedied using a "rubber band" repair or something similar to help push the nozzle valve pin back into place.

I recall a relatively recent thread discussing such a repair somewhere. If you'd be willing to take some pics of your repair and help write up an article, I'd want to include this repair onto the site. If you need more info on how to do the repair, let us know.

:cool:
:: Leave NO one dry! :: iSoaker.com .:

User avatar
cobralex297
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Post by cobralex297 » Sat Aug 11, 2007 9:25 pm

I'd be glad to take some pictures, were I able to do the repair, however right now I'm not completely confident on my ability to do so. I guess the best thing to do right now would be to open the gun up and take a look, etc. I'll buy some rubberbands... :p
However I'm not sure.
Being able to successfully do this repair would be quite a good thing, as another Mk.2 2000 in the same or a similar operating condition is actually on it's way to me right now, from Aqua_Flash. I'll report on that one once I get it. Hopefully the repair will be straightforward and similar between the two guns. I can only pray...

I have very little knowledge of the 'Rubber Band Repair', however I have heard about it and it does seem to be a pretty common repair; straightforward and such- I just don't know what to do. Any assistance in that particular regard would be greatly appreciated.

On a sidenote, this gun is probably in the worst cosmetic condition out of any of the guns in my armory, actually sporting duct tape on the exterior of the nozzle (which I'll need to take off soon, I guess), so I suppose that I'm blessed to not be forced to do a repair that warrants opening the gun, on another of my guns that is in better or very good condition. I guess that's not saying much, but with one of my favoroite guns in trouble, I'm doing the best to see the upside. :goofy:


@Jlspacemarine: Thank you for any assistance that you'd be able to provide. As far as I can tell, the water is coming directly from the nozzle, and not from inside the casing.

@iSoaker: I would be glad to provide pictures of the internals and of the repair. I'm not sure if you currently have internals pictures for the Cps 2000, however I'd be more than glad to let you take whatever I get throughout this process, of those. As to providing pictures and helping to write an article on the repair, I'd be more than glad to provide pictures, however things are getting busier for me as I'm going to be away much in the upcoming weeks ( :( ), so I'm not sure how much assistance I'll be able to give in the actual writing of a possible article. I will be more than glad to answer any and all questions though (as always), that will not be a problem.

@Everyone: Any assistance, ideas, and comments would be greatly appreciated. I very much hope to follow through with the repair on this gun, and assuming that that goes as it should, the creation of an article to help future people with this problem should easily follow in suit.

It is my sincerest intention that this gun as well as the similar one on it's way be restored to full working condition. As I previously stated, although I can use it currently, it's truly a pain to deal with the leakage, so I've opted to use other guns. I've got more than enough suitable weapons, however this gun is a staple of my armory and it would be a shame to have it in anything other than prime operating condition.

Thanks in advance for any advice y'all may render!~
:)

P.S.
@Jlspacemarine (again): Were you able to successfully fix your leaking 2000? You speak as if you were, however I'm still a little nervous and kinda feel the need to confirm... thanks... :cool:




Edited By cobralex297 on 1186886264

User avatar
isoaker
Posts: 7113
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2004 1:51 pm
Location: Elsewhere
Contact:

Post by isoaker » Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:42 am

First, you need to open your CPS2000 Mk.2 to be able to assess the true extent of the problem. Once you get inside, take some pics, particularly a couple of views of the nozzle-valve area.

Rubber Band Repair article at SSCentral I knew I saw pictures of this repair. :goofy:

Basically, the valve works by the trigger pulling the metal pin to open the valve opening. The spring to push the pin back starts to fail after time, not necessarily because the spring is weaker, but more likely from increased friction on the rod due to corrosion or loss of lubricant. At any rate, what the rubber band does to remedy the situation is to give a little bit more added force to help push the pin/rod back into its closed position when the trigger is released. The number of rubber bands needed depends on how hard it is to move the pin. Do note, if you put on too many rubber bands, you will make pulling the trigger more difficult.

As for article writing, if you can take pics and share some of your thoughts of the process, I'd happily fill in the remainder of the article content for a joint piece of work.

:cool:
:: Leave NO one dry! :: iSoaker.com .:

User avatar
cobralex297
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Post by cobralex297 » Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:27 pm

I have found the source of the leak. As opposed to a weak trigger valve, there were two small holes or cracks in the plastic housing of the nozzle/valve. These holes would spew out a constant stream of water when the chamber was filled, obviously lowering the water level in the chamber, and the pressure. This seems to be an easier fix than the original problem, as I've just slathered the area with PVC cement. I'm waiting for it to dry currently, and will most likely put the gun back together and test it today.

I have pictures that I will upload later.

Thanks a bunch, all that have helped, we're not through this problem yet...

EDIT: Update-

Here's the before picture, you can see where the water is spewing from the apparent holes/cracks in the front end of the gun, in the general nozzle/trigger valve area. You'll also notice that there are some rubber bands in place on the gun, however they were immediately taken off after I realized that they were not at all necessary or related in any way in their placement, to the problem area(s). Also, I am pretty sure that I placed them in the wrong general area ... :oo: I'm sure there's a more specific technical name for the part mentioned, however the picture really shows exactly where the water was coming out.

After liberally applying both PVC Cement and some Aerosol Adhesive, the hole was thoroughly plugged. I waited about two hours for everything to dry, as that was the minimum recommended time on the PVC Cement bottle, and then I put the gun back together (with the help of a friend, to speed things up), and gave it a test. It worked great, with less overall nozzle leakage than before the climax of the problem. I assume that this is a direct result of my heavy hand with the adhesive.

Although you can't really see any difference, I will show you an 'after' shot, of the general area.

The gun now works great. I appreciate all the offers of advice, without them I definitely wouldn't have had the confidence to open up the gun, regardless of the problem being different.

@iSoaker: ... Well, I guess this particular time isn't one at which I'll be able to help with the creation of a trigger valve 'rubber band' repair article, ... sorry :-P
my trigger valve does sseem to be in pretty good condition, it was just the leak/cracks that were killing me.




Edited By cobralex297 on 1186957576

User avatar
isoaker
Posts: 7113
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2004 1:51 pm
Location: Elsewhere
Contact:

Post by isoaker » Sun Aug 12, 2007 7:18 pm

Cracks in the plastic, to me, seems to be a worse problem than a rod valve problem. Leaks in the plastic suggest that the valve plastic is getting more brittle for some reason. You may consider actually coating as much of the valve with glue to reinforce the plastic (of course, don't glue the moving parts).

Nice pics, though!

As for an article, being a new sort of problem, I'd still be interested in creating an article, though it won't be a rubber band repair in this case. :goofy:

:cool:
:: Leave NO one dry! :: iSoaker.com .:

User avatar
cobralex297
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Post by cobralex297 » Sun Aug 12, 2007 7:37 pm

The cracks do seem, independently of others, to be a noteworthy and reasonably severe issue. I have coated the area that had been experiencing crackage with PVC Cement, in order to prevent anything similar from happening. I am unsure if the pictures that I had taken in the process (and linked to/emailed to you, iSoaker - :-P) will be enough, however if so, I will be more than happy to answer and correspond in regard to any questions necessary in the creation of an article on this topic. Feel free to contact me in this regard, I will happily contribute as needed. At this time, the gun is in great working condition, possibly better than it was in before. so I'm happy regardless of the severity of the problem, as I think that I have fixed it thoroughly.

@all: Feel free to post with any questions or comments, I'll gladly respond.

User avatar
cobralex297
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Post by cobralex297 » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:29 am

Important Update:

The PVC Cement that I used to fill/reinforce the cracked area has cracked and/or deteriorated. In correspondence with Ben_, he warned me that this might happen and recommended against the use of PVC Cement on soakers as it is more of a solvent welder than an adhesive/crack-filler.

Next, I think that I will use some kind of all purpose cement or cement(s), in order to completely prevent anything like this from ever reoccuring.

Advice/Comments?

Rook
Posts: 241
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:37 pm

Post by Rook » Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:22 pm

Epoxy putty. That stuff works miracles. The only problem is if you get too much on your parts, it won't properly fit back into the casing. You could also try some marine epoxy. Whatever you choose, it needs to be thoroughly waterproof AND able to withstand pressure.

Good luck!
My Armoury: Storm 750, CPS 4100, Triple Aggressor, Blazer, SI Flash Flood (Nozzle Drilled), 100 oz. Aquapack, MONSTER X (2002), WW Argon, A.R.M. 4000 XL, MI Defender, MI Helix, Water Weapons Waveblast, CPS 2700

My "broken" Armoury: CPS 4100, XP 55

User avatar
cobralex297
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Post by cobralex297 » Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:57 pm

Okay, I'll try to acquire some of that. Now that I have a new drill/electric screwdriver, taking apart guns like this one, in similar situations, won't be too bad.

@Rook: Can that putty stuff withstand pressure?

See the before picture to see what exactly I'm dealing with, in terms of the leak.

Rook
Posts: 241
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:37 pm

Post by Rook » Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:04 pm

It should, yes. It turns rock solid when it dries. It's absolutely impossible to remove without a Dremel or sandpaper (plus six hours of sanding). It's not too hard to find and costs about $5.
My Armoury: Storm 750, CPS 4100, Triple Aggressor, Blazer, SI Flash Flood (Nozzle Drilled), 100 oz. Aquapack, MONSTER X (2002), WW Argon, A.R.M. 4000 XL, MI Defender, MI Helix, Water Weapons Waveblast, CPS 2700

My "broken" Armoury: CPS 4100, XP 55

User avatar
cobralex297
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:29 pm
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Post by cobralex297 » Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:20 pm

That is then what I will use. I plan to be heading to ACE hardware soon, which is really just a DREAM for someone that enjoys work on soakers. Will advise accordingly.

Edit:
Update:

I tried to use the soaker, hoping that I'd just deal with the problem by means of ignoring it. Unfortunately, the problem just grew worse, very much worse. It is definitely necessary that I solve this problem before the next usage of the blaster.




Edited By cobralex297 on 1187144501

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests