Orca Pain

For questions, articles and discussions regarding water blaster maintenance and repairs.
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bb1
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Post by bb1 » Sat Apr 21, 2007 4:04 pm

When I pull the trigger, water comes out of the nozzle, nuff said.

But when I release, it still comes out at a trickle on larger nozzles, and a tiny stream on the smallest nozzle(s). Sometimes, to counteract, I pull the trigger out all the way when I release (not convenient) to put a stop, but I have been noticing a stream performance issue. I do not think I can exchange it, I did the drilly thing at the top of the resevoir. It didn't act like this today, so it looks like I have to open it up :( :( :(

Silence
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Post by Silence » Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:23 pm

Do an open trigger valve repair.

I suspected the gun would be likely to have this problem early on - the trigger was very easy to pull. Good for tap-shooting, but bad in terms of reliability.

EDIT: This should be in the repairs section. ;)




Edited By Silence on 1177194278

bb1
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Post by bb1 » Sat Apr 21, 2007 8:22 pm

Opened it up with great difficulty, messed with a rubber band on the valve (MUCH different than in the pictures, I actually had to tuck it under the screw)

Didn't help much in a very hard test. I'd probably need an industrial strength rubber band, for the trigger valve is set up funky. A spring would not work- there is already one in there!

Putting back together in defeat- the trigger now sits in there very wobbly, it doesn't want to come together, screws aren't fitting where they should (darn those dumb electric wires for the PCV, can't separate both pieces), I can't return it to the store because I drilled the tiny hole, and I am out $20 from a poorly-constructed-trigger-soaker :(




Edited By bb1 on 1177205000

SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Sun Apr 22, 2007 5:48 am

Opened it up with great difficulty, messed with a rubber band on the valve (MUCH different than in the pictures, I actually had to tuck it under the screw)


Every water gun is different, so each water gun's repair process should be different. I'm compiling repair images and instructions from a larger number of water guns for our site update for that reason. :cool:

Anyway, Buzz Bee Toys water guns have a different trigger mechanism and require a slightly different repair for the same problem: http://www.geocities.com/m15399/rubberband.html

bb1
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Post by bb1 » Sun Apr 22, 2007 12:00 pm

The trigger valve now only completely closes 75% of the time, but now it like to leak from everywhere (Mostly the two bottom holes....maybe because the nozzle selector wasn't lined up)

Now I can't get the part where the front-belt clip goes to come together. The screw won't go home and I can see nothing blocking the path where it should come together...

Help me big bee!!!

HBWW
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Post by HBWW » Sun Apr 22, 2007 12:37 pm

My Orca has exactly the same problem. I'm planning to return it for a Tiger Shark, but if I can't, I'll have to do the repair.



Edited By C-A_99 on 1177263487
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bb1
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Post by bb1 » Sun Apr 22, 2007 1:46 pm

Is it too late to return? It won't close up and I drilled the tiny hole (I can camo that very craftilly ;) ) But I can not take this anymore. Every time I try to fix it, it gets worse! Maybe, if I'm lucky, there will be a massive recall for malfunct engineering...one can only hope!

This seems like the max D problem, but different. Upon inspection of the trigger valve, it seems like they will all go bad after a little bit of use. The force applied to the spring, which is already fairly weak, will eventually cause it to stop returning to position. It takes so much force that you actually have to pull the trigger OUT (instead of pushing it to fire) To get it to close properly.

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Post by HBWW » Sun Apr 22, 2007 1:50 pm

I've had similar problems with MD triggers. The Flood nozzle doesn't open and close all the way sometimes, and the main trigger locks up often. (the main trigger however, is powered by weak rubber bands that had to be used since the spring broke)

My piranha has been used more than my Orca and it doesn't have any signs of the same problem.
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bb1
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Post by bb1 » Sun Apr 22, 2007 1:58 pm

Is anybody else having problems with this?

Silence
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Post by Silence » Sun Apr 22, 2007 4:37 pm

No need to freak out. I'm sure BBT didn't intend for this to happen, and it seems not all of the guns have the problem.

Just try the repair again. Look for a way to disconnect the wiring - they must have connected it with the case half open. Perhaps revealing the batteries would show some parts that could be disconnected.

You can use pretty much anything for repairs. Just take any old rubber bands and duct tape them into the correct location.

bb1
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Post by bb1 » Sun Apr 22, 2007 6:01 pm

It doesn't want to come together, with nothing blockading the path. Is there any way to return a modded gun? Even if the mod had nothing to do with it breaking?

I already know the answer.... just want insurance :( :soaked:

SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Mon Apr 23, 2007 6:00 pm

bb1, have you visited the link I posted before? I would suggest checking out that link because from what you have described, it is exactly the same problem you have. This repair fixes the problem permanently. :cool:

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Dr. D
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Post by Dr. D » Mon Apr 23, 2007 9:22 pm

bb1 wrote:Is it too late to return?

Yeah. If you've already drilled holes into the gun or have even opened it up at all, I doubt the retailer will even consider letting you return the gun.
I already know the answer.... just want insurance :( :soaked:

Well why didn't you just say so in the first place? If you're looking for car insurance I'd go with Geiko, but I'd lean more towards Allstate for medical insurance. :goofy:
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bb1
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Post by bb1 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:06 am

I seemed to have fixed the trigger valve issue, two quadruple-upped rubber bands (it will be hard pulling the trigger regularly now!)

my new issue is that the two halves won't come together cleanly when I try to reassemble my soaker. The area of interest is right above the nozzle, up to the strap loop where it splits drastically. Is there anything internal blocking it? I checked a few times. I REALLY hope I didn't bend the plastic, or I will probably have to resort to glue.




Edited By bb1 on 1177714722

bb1
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Post by bb1 » Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:59 pm

(update, see prior post. AKA- Bump *please don't shoot*)

Silence
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Post by Silence » Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:08 pm

It's usually safe to double-post if you're providing an update after a day or so, when people who read the thread might not have read it after the update.

Bend the plastic? Doubt it. It probably is an internal piece in the way.

On my CPS 4100, the trigger pulls on a trigger wire that pulls on a lever. The fulcrum is a metal pin that fits in a round slot in each half of the case. When putting the case back together, that metal piece has to go through both slots.

Something similar might be occurring here. As you put the two halves of the case together, look through the seam to see if anything sticks out. If so, make sure everything goes together properly.

bb1
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Post by bb1 » Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:18 pm

I think I've got it working. Closed!



Edited By bb1 on 1177790512

bb1
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Post by bb1 » Sun May 20, 2007 5:24 pm

Apparantly, I was wrong. It has reverted back to its prior self! Two quadruple-folded rubber bands didn't hold in place! (I think they wore down already!)

I'd hate to open it back up, but I might not have a choice. Darn! That is one resiliant broken thing!

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Post by DX » Sun May 20, 2007 8:57 pm

You may need stronger rubber bands. I found a random kind in the grocery that are really thick and really strong. They use them for vegetables, but are much more useful inside water guns. :laugh:
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isoaker
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Post by isoaker » Mon May 21, 2007 6:55 am

Duxburian wrote:You may need stronger rubber bands. I found a random kind in the grocery that are really thick and really strong. They use them for vegetables, but are much more useful inside water guns. :laugh:
So, it's eat your veggies and get great spare parts for repairing broken water blaster triggers! I like it! :goofy:

:cool:
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