Orca Pain
When I pull the trigger, water comes out of the nozzle, nuff said.
But when I release, it still comes out at a trickle on larger nozzles, and a tiny stream on the smallest nozzle(s). Sometimes, to counteract, I pull the trigger out all the way when I release (not convenient) to put a stop, but I have been noticing a stream performance issue. I do not think I can exchange it, I did the drilly thing at the top of the resevoir. It didn't act like this today, so it looks like I have to open it up
But when I release, it still comes out at a trickle on larger nozzles, and a tiny stream on the smallest nozzle(s). Sometimes, to counteract, I pull the trigger out all the way when I release (not convenient) to put a stop, but I have been noticing a stream performance issue. I do not think I can exchange it, I did the drilly thing at the top of the resevoir. It didn't act like this today, so it looks like I have to open it up
Do an open trigger valve repair.
I suspected the gun would be likely to have this problem early on - the trigger was very easy to pull. Good for tap-shooting, but bad in terms of reliability.
EDIT: This should be in the repairs section.
Edited By Silence on 1177194278
I suspected the gun would be likely to have this problem early on - the trigger was very easy to pull. Good for tap-shooting, but bad in terms of reliability.
EDIT: This should be in the repairs section.
Edited By Silence on 1177194278
Opened it up with great difficulty, messed with a rubber band on the valve (MUCH different than in the pictures, I actually had to tuck it under the screw)
Didn't help much in a very hard test. I'd probably need an industrial strength rubber band, for the trigger valve is set up funky. A spring would not work- there is already one in there!
Putting back together in defeat- the trigger now sits in there very wobbly, it doesn't want to come together, screws aren't fitting where they should (darn those dumb electric wires for the PCV, can't separate both pieces), I can't return it to the store because I drilled the tiny hole, and I am out $20 from a poorly-constructed-trigger-soaker
Edited By bb1 on 1177205000
Didn't help much in a very hard test. I'd probably need an industrial strength rubber band, for the trigger valve is set up funky. A spring would not work- there is already one in there!
Putting back together in defeat- the trigger now sits in there very wobbly, it doesn't want to come together, screws aren't fitting where they should (darn those dumb electric wires for the PCV, can't separate both pieces), I can't return it to the store because I drilled the tiny hole, and I am out $20 from a poorly-constructed-trigger-soaker
Edited By bb1 on 1177205000
Opened it up with great difficulty, messed with a rubber band on the valve (MUCH different than in the pictures, I actually had to tuck it under the screw)
Every water gun is different, so each water gun's repair process should be different. I'm compiling repair images and instructions from a larger number of water guns for our site update for that reason.
Anyway, Buzz Bee Toys water guns have a different trigger mechanism and require a slightly different repair for the same problem: http://www.geocities.com/m15399/rubberband.html
The trigger valve now only completely closes 75% of the time, but now it like to leak from everywhere (Mostly the two bottom holes....maybe because the nozzle selector wasn't lined up)
Now I can't get the part where the front-belt clip goes to come together. The screw won't go home and I can see nothing blocking the path where it should come together...
Help me big bee!!!
Now I can't get the part where the front-belt clip goes to come together. The screw won't go home and I can see nothing blocking the path where it should come together...
Help me big bee!!!
Is it too late to return? It won't close up and I drilled the tiny hole (I can camo that very craftilly ) But I can not take this anymore. Every time I try to fix it, it gets worse! Maybe, if I'm lucky, there will be a massive recall for malfunct engineering...one can only hope!
This seems like the max D problem, but different. Upon inspection of the trigger valve, it seems like they will all go bad after a little bit of use. The force applied to the spring, which is already fairly weak, will eventually cause it to stop returning to position. It takes so much force that you actually have to pull the trigger OUT (instead of pushing it to fire) To get it to close properly.
This seems like the max D problem, but different. Upon inspection of the trigger valve, it seems like they will all go bad after a little bit of use. The force applied to the spring, which is already fairly weak, will eventually cause it to stop returning to position. It takes so much force that you actually have to pull the trigger OUT (instead of pushing it to fire) To get it to close properly.
I've had similar problems with MD triggers. The Flood nozzle doesn't open and close all the way sometimes, and the main trigger locks up often. (the main trigger however, is powered by weak rubber bands that had to be used since the spring broke)
My piranha has been used more than my Orca and it doesn't have any signs of the same problem.
My piranha has been used more than my Orca and it doesn't have any signs of the same problem.
No need to freak out. I'm sure BBT didn't intend for this to happen, and it seems not all of the guns have the problem.
Just try the repair again. Look for a way to disconnect the wiring - they must have connected it with the case half open. Perhaps revealing the batteries would show some parts that could be disconnected.
You can use pretty much anything for repairs. Just take any old rubber bands and duct tape them into the correct location.
Just try the repair again. Look for a way to disconnect the wiring - they must have connected it with the case half open. Perhaps revealing the batteries would show some parts that could be disconnected.
You can use pretty much anything for repairs. Just take any old rubber bands and duct tape them into the correct location.
bb1 wrote:Is it too late to return?
Yeah. If you've already drilled holes into the gun or have even opened it up at all, I doubt the retailer will even consider letting you return the gun.
I already know the answer.... just want insurance
Well why didn't you just say so in the first place? If you're looking for car insurance I'd go with Geiko, but I'd lean more towards Allstate for medical insurance.
n00b friend: "Nice SP 270!"
Me: "Uhh, it's XP."
n00b friend: "Oh yeah! Nice SP 270 XP!"
Current Official USF Armory: Monster X, CPS 4100, CPS 2500 (shotgun), CPS 2100 (x3), CPS 1500, CPS 1200 (x3), CPS 1000, MI Flash Flood (x3) STE Flash Flood (x2) WW Orca
Me: "Uhh, it's XP."
n00b friend: "Oh yeah! Nice SP 270 XP!"
Current Official USF Armory: Monster X, CPS 4100, CPS 2500 (shotgun), CPS 2100 (x3), CPS 1500, CPS 1200 (x3), CPS 1000, MI Flash Flood (x3) STE Flash Flood (x2) WW Orca
I seemed to have fixed the trigger valve issue, two quadruple-upped rubber bands (it will be hard pulling the trigger regularly now!)
my new issue is that the two halves won't come together cleanly when I try to reassemble my soaker. The area of interest is right above the nozzle, up to the strap loop where it splits drastically. Is there anything internal blocking it? I checked a few times. I REALLY hope I didn't bend the plastic, or I will probably have to resort to glue.
Edited By bb1 on 1177714722
my new issue is that the two halves won't come together cleanly when I try to reassemble my soaker. The area of interest is right above the nozzle, up to the strap loop where it splits drastically. Is there anything internal blocking it? I checked a few times. I REALLY hope I didn't bend the plastic, or I will probably have to resort to glue.
Edited By bb1 on 1177714722
It's usually safe to double-post if you're providing an update after a day or so, when people who read the thread might not have read it after the update.
Bend the plastic? Doubt it. It probably is an internal piece in the way.
On my CPS 4100, the trigger pulls on a trigger wire that pulls on a lever. The fulcrum is a metal pin that fits in a round slot in each half of the case. When putting the case back together, that metal piece has to go through both slots.
Something similar might be occurring here. As you put the two halves of the case together, look through the seam to see if anything sticks out. If so, make sure everything goes together properly.
Bend the plastic? Doubt it. It probably is an internal piece in the way.
On my CPS 4100, the trigger pulls on a trigger wire that pulls on a lever. The fulcrum is a metal pin that fits in a round slot in each half of the case. When putting the case back together, that metal piece has to go through both slots.
Something similar might be occurring here. As you put the two halves of the case together, look through the seam to see if anything sticks out. If so, make sure everything goes together properly.
You may need stronger rubber bands. I found a random kind in the grocery that are really thick and really strong. They use them for vegetables, but are much more useful inside water guns. :laugh:
marauder wrote:You have to explain things in terms that kids will understand, like videogames^ That's how I got Sam to stop using piston pumpers
So, it's eat your veggies and get great spare parts for repairing broken water blaster triggers! I like it!Duxburian wrote:You may need stronger rubber bands. I found a random kind in the grocery that are really thick and really strong. They use them for vegetables, but are much more useful inside water guns. :laugh:
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