MD 6K - How do i open it?
They would be circular, with ridges for grip. They're the only size of phillips head screwdrivers that i have that fit into the screw holes (they're about maybe 2 or so cm deep). Thanks for your help. Should i try drilling a hole into the screwdriver and putting a metal bar through it to use as a lever?
Edited By Teh Moron on 1182449647
Edited By Teh Moron on 1182449647

Sound's like this is only for one particular screw. Is the head of the screw all damaged? If it is, you'll need to use a more destructive method to remove it. I don't know about the method you mentioned, but something along those lines should work.
Apparently, one of the screws on my Flash Flood seems to be doing the same thing. Drilling a hole in the screw isn't really working (it takes too long for the drill to get through), so I'm looking to other methods, such as using brute force to break the frame apart, or seeing if I can cut the connection.
Be careful when using brute force, sometimes it's the only option, but sometimes it can also damage more of the gun than really necessary.
Apparently, one of the screws on my Flash Flood seems to be doing the same thing. Drilling a hole in the screw isn't really working (it takes too long for the drill to get through), so I'm looking to other methods, such as using brute force to break the frame apart, or seeing if I can cut the connection.
Be careful when using brute force, sometimes it's the only option, but sometimes it can also damage more of the gun than really necessary.
Is the head of the screw stripped, or does it still have some shape to it? maybe you could put just a tiny bit of epoxy on the screw head and leave a cheap disposable screwdriver in the screw hole with a clamp to hold the screwdriver in the correct position. Wait until the epoxy is dry and turn the screwdriver slowly careful not to break the epoxy.
However, I haven't got that much experience with epoxy and dont really remember how hard it is..
Of course, some of the epoxy might seep onto the sides of the screw hole and make opening alot harder.
However, I haven't got that much experience with epoxy and dont really remember how hard it is..
Of course, some of the epoxy might seep onto the sides of the screw hole and make opening alot harder.

Thanks for your help. In the end I used the screwdriver with a weird wrench (i dont know what it's called, looks like a pair of bent scissors) and took off the evil screw. Looks like the spring connecting the trigger valve to the trigger snapped, so I just put a couple of rubber bands (as seen on Ben's very helpful site) between them, using the same anchor points as the spring, and my problem was fixed.
Now to do that nozzle drill, CVF and XPS mod I always wanted to do.
(sorry for double post)
Edited By Teh Moron on 1182463341
Now to do that nozzle drill, CVF and XPS mod I always wanted to do.

(sorry for double post)
Edited By Teh Moron on 1182463341

Hm, interesting idea, but not sure how well it'd work. It's hard to get that area smoothed out for the epoxy to fill, and even then, if it's that tight I doubt it'd open up, even with different glues. But I shouldn't need to worry about the glue damaging the screwdriver either way, seems like it'd be pretty easily removed. (which is partly why I doubt the idea would work in the first place) Anyways, I managed to get to the part I needed to without busting the screw. It's just the periodic need of replacing rubber bands for the trigger.
And BTW, the "CVF" is actually called a PRV disable. "Freezing" a check valve won't do much good as far as I'm concerned.
Wonder why those outdated articles haven't been updated/edited/whatever at all in the past few years.
Edited By C-A_99 on 1182464967
And BTW, the "CVF" is actually called a PRV disable. "Freezing" a check valve won't do much good as far as I'm concerned.

Edited By C-A_99 on 1182464967
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