WaterWar.net

Hi!!! This is my first post
Wow guys.. this webpage is awesome!!
I m writting you to ask for some advise: the thing is me and 9 friends want to participate in a competition called Transsegre, which combines a race with homemade boats, beer, and water wars. Last year oir weapons were just those small water sticks,wich broke.early so we had no weapons for the second day. We want to build some of the homemade weapons you show in the web, but there are so many and we have no experience with pvc yet.. Additionaly, there are some facts to consider: unlimited water (we have no problem to refill in the river, or to connect our weapons directly into the river..) and we have no problems to pump the water manually ( last year some guys used a kind of bicicle device to do it). The kind of weapons we want to build is something to intimidate a bit, easy to build, long range and easy torefill in river. Can you make us some good recommendations? Thanks a lot

This should do everything you want and be simple to make, just read the guide.

http://www.sscentral.org/homemade/aph/

Or if you want to go the stock approach this should do quite nicely

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LARAMI-SUPER-SO ... 257e4c32b0

For boat wars, having a few piston-type blasters is always a good idea. See: Sac American River "syringe" type water gun.

An APH, as CA_99 linked to above, will probably work well. Instead of connecting it to a water backpack, you can just connect a long piece of tubing and throw it into the water. You may have to weight the end of the tubing to keep it submerged.

Wow! thank you all!!! Good ideas
I don't understand what is a CA_99, is it a kind of aph gun? Where can I find it?

Thanks a lot!!!

He meant the oncoming storm instead ofCA99.

You could also consider the MOARC (Mother Of All River Cannons). Bit more pricey (uses an electric/petrol powered water pump) but really powerful!

Wow, sorry about that. lol

MOARC is pretty much the ultimate design, but it would be more difficult to get all the parts. Make the MOARC if you can.

CA_99 is another member who has not yet posted on this thread. Martianshark was refering to the oncoming storm, the first one to reply.
I would suggest syringe guns, pumps for aphs are hard to make

Woha..! Incredible.. But I think the MOARC is too difficult for us..
We will try APH and the other kind of river gun you suggested! Thanks a lot!!!

I may not be a kind of APH, but I sure have my own design for one! No guides/details yet, but I will need some time to change that. The design itself may need some fine tuning too, but it's pretty solid so far and is a slight step up from the typical SSC design everyone follows. Here is a brief overview of the features:

- Backpack reservoir: Use a camp shower or solar shower and shove it into a backpack. A camel back works too but has less capacity.
- Low pump dead space: Allows you to pump more air into the pressure chambers. Bike/air pumps are obviously unwieldy in battle, but you need some way of getting extra air in the chambers, or the APH design is pointless (too much wasted water that can't shoot far enough) and you might as well build a CPH. To achieve this, the check valves must be as close to the pump as possible.
- Modular design: Threaded parts used where possible or practical. They create issues with rotation getting thrown off easily, but this can be partially alleviated with better structure. (i.e. A proper PVC connection between the pressure chambers and pump.) Threaded parts let you replace and service the blaster better.
- Pressure chambers: You need at least two 3" chambers or 3 2" chambers. I used the former, but additional PC's will increase the weight (and thus the inbalance/top-heaviness) significantly. One pressure chamber however, does not carry a useful amount of water.
- Pump: The pump I used is a revised version of the SuperPiston MK II, found here: http://www.waterwar.net/site_wwn/board/topic6076.html However, I'm still tinkering around for a more ideal, but the pump I ended up using for my APH works flawlessly so far. The technique involves/requires a perfect cut on a hollow aluminum dowel so that it can hold the O-ring. A machine screw is used to hold the O-ring. The problem with the MK II is the nylon spacer used, although tightening the screw with an allen wrench may have solved the problem.

Anyway, this will all be better explained later. This design is about as easy to build as any other CPH, but does require online parts (threaded check valves). It's up to you what to do, although that will also vary depending on the kind of parts available where you live. (Most of which shouldn't be a problem in the U.S. I think.)