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Hi

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 5:23 pm
by Mewist2
Hi everyone, I have been folowing these fourms for a few days now, and I decided to make an account, spent like half a hour trying to make my account because it said awnser the anti-spam thing, and I thought it was talking about the code down the bottom, lol.
Anyway, a few things about myself, I am 12 (Yeah I saw what happened to that other 12 year-old, lol) And I live in Australia, NSW .
Anyway, my current water guns/blasters are the Max-D 3000 (My first) And the shot blast.
My younger brother has a Max-D 3000 (We got the 2 pack) and a rattler.
He allways beats me but I am trying to get better, I have been noticing that I have rarley been strafing, just standing still.
Anyways, any advice is welcome and I have an upcoming water war, and I hope to win it, it will be a 2v3 or 2v2 with me on the 2 in both cases :( .
Ok, goodbye and soak on :cps2000:

Re: Hi

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:58 pm
by HBWW
Usually, the age 13 requirement is put because of some crap COPPA law in the U.S., and a lot of those who register are also from the U.S. so it presents a liability. I'm not sure how iSoaker deals with it from other countries, but most likely he'll suspend your account until you turn 13. (For future reference, revealing age over the internet is not always a good idea.)

But regardless, welcome. For your water war, it's worth looking into what larger blasters are available in your area. The Max-D 3000 is an excellent blaster (though I dislike the Shot Blast for various reasons) but is only excellent as a small sidearm, at least in wars where larger blasters are around. If you can get your hands on a Vindicator, Vanquisher, or Iron Man/Arctic Blast/Flash Flood, you'll do fairly well on the war. Give the opposing team one as well to balance things out.

Max-D 3000-only wars can make for some amusing games though. If I was restricted to Max-D 3000's, I would dual wield them, then carry another extra pair in reserve. You may not have enough blasters to do that with, but it's fun if you can.

Movement and tactics. If your playing area is mostly wide open with sparse cover (like mine is), movement and speed is extremely important. You need to think fast, dodge fast, and move fast or you'll get drenched easily. Strength in numbers is also very important in open wars; work with your teammates and if you can divide and conquer in an elimination game, you win. That leads to hit based games. Most higher end water wars involve counting hits and there are many ways to do so; the most basic being the use of clothspins and tags, but the easiest way is the honor system; at my wars we go by a 20 droplet approximation; if you're hit substaintially, you're out. Any other hits that are noticeable (even a droplet) count as a half-hit, and two of those result in an elimination. Of course, it's subjective and it's difficult to tell how much you're getting hit with in the middle of a war, but it has been the best method for us so far. Of course, it's ultimately up to you how you want to play.

If your playing field has good cover or at least good visual cover, exploit it. If they can't see you, they can't see where you're going to go. Just remember that hiding all the time also makes it much more difficult for you to track them as well. However, movement will be of higher importance nearly all the time unless you're playing indoors or something. That's when cover usage becomes vital, if the field has lots of solid cover spaced tightly together. But even when there's plenty of cover, you need to be fast and move smart.

I hope you can at least read through this if iSoaker decides to suspend your account. It's not that we have anything against younger people, it's just a rule in place to generally keep things in order. (And to prevent the COPPA laws from becoming a problem/liability.)

Re: Hi

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:09 pm
by Mewist2
Ok, thanks for the heads up, I am from australia and there are no rules here that I know of. plus I will be 13 in 3 weeks so yea.

Re: Hi

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:15 pm
by martianshark
The Max-D 3000 and shot blast aren't incredibly powerful. I would look for a bigger, more powerful blasters. Here's a list of blasters I recommend, best ones first.

Vindicator
Pulse Master
Hydra Pak
Expedition
Vanquisher
Flash Flood (note: trigger breaks easily)
Iron Man II (main trigger is less likely to break)
Arctic blast (just as likely to break as the flash flood)
Pulse Strike
Renegade
Pulse Blaster
Equalizer
Steady Stream
Sneak Attack
Splat Blaster
Shark

Re: Hi

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:24 pm
by Mewist2
Thanks :)

Re: Hi

Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 12:55 am
by martianshark
Oh yeah, by the way, you may also want to consider buying a CPS. Even a small one, such as a CPS 1000, 1200, or 2100 is very powerful and costs about $30 if you buy it at the right time.

Re: Hi

Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 1:12 am
by HBWW
The CPS line comes from 1998 to 2002 (with the exception of one or two re-releases) and can now be only found from eBay/Craigslist, garage sales, friends, etc. They were built for water wars and are the absolute best you can get. (Technically it's possible to build something better but very difficult to.)

I'm not sure how easy it is to find them in Australia, but it should be possible to find sellers in the same country. (So you don't have to pay an arm and a leg for shipping.)