WaterWar.net

I think it has come up before, but people don't like to in case it has any weedkiller left inside it. If you're buying it brand new, wash it out thoroughly and make sure no one uses it for weedkiller (some big bold permanent marker labelling?), it should work quite well. It's nozzle would need modif...

It depends I guess. The PPB looks like it has fairly generously sized internal tubing compared to other blasters. If you can pump it quickly with little resistance in it's current form, increasing the diameter slightly shouldn't increase the resistance too much. As long as everything before the pump...

You probably won't get through a hole stick of the stuff. IIRC I used just around a half of a stick to do the inside of both (and around the outside of one) halves of the valve on my 1500 (still got a bit left of that stick somewhere :goofy:). You just need to make a thick-ish worm of epoxy putty an...

I'd whack some epoxy putty in there over the normal epoxy, for a bit more strength around the crack. Should help to reduce the stress in that area at the edge of the valve. You could just go around the whole inside edge of the valve to make sure. A bit of fresh epoxy between the two will help to hol...

I see your point, and technically any and all components which hold pressure could be considered as pressure vessels (including all of the piping past the second check valve). The term "Pressure Chamber" is defined differently from "Pressure Vessel" (as far as I know only by the water warfare commun...

The cracks in the pic are on the front of the pull valve (referring to the whole plastic assembly as the valve) not the PC. For simplicity, and to differentiate it from the rest of the blaster, we tend to define the pressure chamber as the part of the blaster responsible for building pressure (the r...

It should take around 15-20 pumps to fully pressurise the pressure chamber (PC). It shouldn't be possible to over pressurise it as it will have a pressure relief valve (PRV) to prevent over-pressurisation. If you keep pumping until the blaster makes a squeaking noise and you feel a little resistance...

Sounds like a pretty sweet setup! Especially with both PC's fully pressurised in 10 seconds! What is a laminator? Is it the long nozzle piece after the trigger valve on CPSes? Kinda. The laminator is basically what's inside that. The laminator is a length of pipe, with of straws/fins and/or mesh, to...

I'm another one who prefers manual pumping. Best of both worlds would be an electric pump, with manual override/bypass. In all seriousness, the only reason to opt for an electric pump would be if it's faster than a regular pump. Dual wielding? :goofy: If you put make the pump automatic (pump wheneve...

Those end caps aren't really designed to be removed when pushed in. They also aren't completely water tight. They are cheap thoug, so porbably worth a try. If you can find the full module, with the base mount patch, a Boston valve (used to inflate/deflate boats) would be a good bet. If you remove th...

You could use a reducer coupling instead of a threaded coupler. If you can't find one, you could always solvent weld, or epoxy, the threaded connection.

This is a fairly common failure. The most popular methods are to just permanently bond the backpack hose to the internals, or to stick on some quick connect hose fittings. You can buy garden hose fittings really cheaply from any hardware store, or any other shop which sells garden hoses. You can als...

Like storm said, the current layout won't work, the check valve needs to be on the other exit from the tee. There is no reason why removable PC's wouldn't work. I had to use a threaded coupler on my homemade to connect the PC to the blaster, as expansion cylinders have a male threaded outlet. Either...

Yes, it doesn't need to expand lengthways to push water out the nozzle, but you'll reduce the effective PC capacity and the performance of the blaster a lot. Even though LRT expands widthways more than it expands lengthways, you lose the expansion parallel to the path of the flow if you don't let it...

From what you've said, it doesn't sound like anything to do with permanently pinched pinch valve tubing. There may be a problem with that, but we'll get to that after we've got as far as filling the pressure chamber (it will stop the blaster firing, but not pressurising). A few things to check to he...

A longer one of these maybe? Pretty much designed for the job! Good old fashioned telescoping brass is another option. Both are good for laminar flow from PC to nozzle, but unfortunately come with a problem. As the PC contracts, the joint expands and fills with water, rather than forcing all of the ...

SuperCAP !!! :D Basically, a big pressure chamber full of air and a separate PC (nearly) full of water, with a pressure regulator between the two. The air-only PC (big metal red one) can be pressurised to something ridiculous, and the regulator steps it down to something manageable. Basically, as w...

Did you use a slider in the PC casing? That should help with curvy LRT by stopping the back of the tubing from touching the wall of the casing, if the sliding piece can be made to move smoothly enough. AFAIK the only way to get LRT over here is via a forwarding company, like angrovesales, but intern...

I'd think even 40 is on the low side, some k-mods reach that. JLSpacemarine's CAR needed 75 to reach 50ft, but that's with a ball valve, a very straight flow path, a laminator and a generous pipe diameter. Balloon PC's seem to have caused issues for a few people on these forums, probably because the...

Depends on how rigid/thick the wall of the bike tube is, around the base of the valve. I fear that the pressure in the PC will just push the valve out through the hole in the back of the PC. It's worth a try, but test it, under safe conditions, to a pressure higher than what you intend to pressurise...