My favorite type of fort requires minimal construction, instead relying on natural features for protection. #1 by far is a small island or peninsula connected to the mainland by bridges or narrow paths. Your infinite water source also acts as your defense when you have an island. The Paine island was great with small trees and bushes to take cover behind, but had only one entrance, which is a major downside. The Onteora Lake island was much better, with 2 entrances over beaver dam bridges and a central hill as a spine. That island would remain defensible from either direction even if an enemy made it across either of the dams.
An island does not necessarily need to have its own additional defenses onboard. There was a Ridgewood war where Waterbridge ambushed the RM while we were refilling. We ran through the brook and took up positions on a bare gravel bar in the middle of the brook. There was no cover to be had there, but it was out of their range, and they couldn't easily fight from a water position. Them trying led to some kills for us.
The RM fort in the Crescent Forest was a different type of island - a patch of dry land surrounded by small streams and muddy swamp. Metal fence sections turned on their sides served as bridges. The swamps remained muddy during dry periods and flooded completely during wet periods, ensuring some kind of defense regardless of the weather. Benches and a fire pit with a flagpole served as a gathering point at the center of the spot. We never ended up using this position in a war, though.
The peninsula at St. John's Woods had potential for a fort. The small creeks were deep enough that it was difficult to jump them. The land approach was pretty wide, however, and would have needed a long wall. The problem with a position that large is that you need enough players to properly garrison it.
If I can't get an island, a high mound surrounded by flat land is second-best. Both Crescent Forest and Goffle had recycling lots with big mulch mounds that were readily defensible. I made Reed Hill's defensive wall by piling up logs and then covering them with mulch. For water, I stored big water jugs there. Unfortunately, the workers at the recycling center removed the water jugs and part of the wall (I wonder what their reactions to the fortifications were?)
Third-best is a position surrounded by dense thorn bushes. This can keep attackers totally out of range in most directions. However, the thorns offer no protection if enemies are equipped for bushwacking and are able to push through.
A treehouse is next on my list. It's possible to rig water to one or to store a lot of water, and to make it virtually impregnable. The treehouse on Sycamore Island was highly resistant to attack by water guns and even WBLs. It took a water cannon to land a hit inside. That's the equivalent of besieging a fort with small arms fire and field artillery, then bringing in the heavy mortars for huge damage. See the Last of the Mohicans scene of the French and indians attacking Fort William Henry. The field cannons do little damage with their straight-line shots. The mortars can angle their massive payloads right onto the defenses. Looking back at that treehouse round, I should have withdrawn from the line to go refill the water cannon for more shots. The 2000 and 1500 were completely ineffective at landing hits inside or at the defenders on the ground. But, just pointing the APWC at the treehouse had Trevor falling back in fear and poured water through the gap that nothing else could hit. The downside to a treehouse is that there are only certain kinds of places (lol not parks) where you can build one. They would be higher on my list otherwise. The type of treehouse you could rig up in a park is usually very crude and vulnerable. You are also trapped there more than in the other locations.
As far as conventional forts go, a stick wall that incorporates thick trees and boulders can be effective. I would prioritize dodging space over walls and bunkers. Bunkers are mainly useful for ambushing or taking a position out of sight. Streams of water arc right into them like mini mortars, also into the space right behind walls. When you build a wall, you want to defend it from several feet back. Stick walls need to be strong and probably short. A WBL or water cannon shot or just strong winds could knock them right over. The walls do not need to enclose the entire fort - openings help you escape and offer more room to dodge.
If you have tarps, you should save them for roof material. I would want to angle them, so water falls off the roof instead of accumulating there and weighing it down to potential collapse. Water is very heavy, ask anyone who made the trek in to Cedar Hill last weekend. Many roofs on New England houses are steeply slanted so snow slides off them. Mine isn't, but instead, it has a heating system along the edges that starts a slippage area that pulls in ice and snow until it all slides off. Tarps are a nice way to get a portable fort, but they can take a while to setup.
It is possible to make the roof from just natural materials. One of my early forts (Stonewall) was made from huge branches and logs. Both the front wall and roof were super solid when the fort was regularly maintained. The back was open to allow easy entry and exit. The spot behind the back was the main gathering area, with thorn bushes protecting that side from attack. The actual fort did not prove useful in battle, but the small hill it was built on/into had a commanding view of the Sacred Grove and was a useful position to take when Waterbridge entered the reed groves. I later built a small observation area above Stonewall called Briar Hill, which gave the best view of the area. The RM launched several attacks into the Sacred Grove originating from Stonewall. Building the fort gave me good knowledge of an underutilized corner of the park and experience in fort-building. As far as I know of, the core of the fort still stands 11 years later!
marauder wrote:You have to explain things in terms that kids will understand, like videogames^ That's how I got Sam to stop using piston pumpers