CPS 2500 Nozzle
Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 6:33 pm
I don't post very often about the work I do, which is for shame given how many times I've had to fix something annoying.
Today's work comes from a 2500. The plastic portion that holds the nozzle selector in place started cracking sometime after Soakemore last year. This resulted in an inability to properly hold the O-ring in place, and created a mysterious leak. It took me some time to see the crack while I frantically tried other methods of repair. (No, silicone sealant wasn't going to do anything, and neither was a new O-ring. I knew this because the O-ring already there is working just fine.)
Anyway, I tried a few nozzle replacements before settling on this:
With this as the end result:
I'm using epoxy putty not just to hold it in place and prevent leakage, but also as a nozzle guard. The first thing to take the war scuff would be the piece that used to hold the nozzle selector in place. The next would be the epoxy putty. I recommend this if you have a problem with smacking blaster fronts into hard objects, concrete, etc., although it seems to be more of a problem with some homemades.
The problem is, I didn't document which part this is, and I feel like an ass because I get annoyed when others don't document the parts they use. All I know right now is that the hole of the washer is 1/4" in diameter. It shouldn't be difficult to find something like this.
Nylon washers and spacers appear to be precision machined, which is just what we need. The surface quality is very good, and initial tests had this thing flying very close to CPS 2000 range. I may just bring this to Soakemore! The nozzle orifice is just barely under 10x, although I'm not completely sure whether the tapering helps or hinders. Our in-house physicists will have to answer that one. Based on previous discussions about conical nozzles, it should help. However, I could not find a conical nozzle of the appropriate size, and last time I tried drilling one resulted in a horrible stream. The problem is as was previously discussed: surface contact causes turbulence, but when that surface is longer than your average flat nozzle and also rough, the resulting stream is going to be horrible.
Perhaps there's further potential to be explored here. Nylon washers can be epoxied to other surfaces, such as a large hose barb, which may give us a good option for homemade nozzles. I will try to remember to update this thread if I make leeway in that area. Some types of idealized homemades are ones that can push a short, but very high performance shot that's at least on par with a CPS 2000, and we need large nozzle orifices to do that. However, a drilled endcap isn't going to get you anywhere with all that rough plastic edge.
Anyway, it's nice to have a nozzle experiment go nicely for once. Because this not only "fixed" the lack of a nozzle on the 2500 but also improved it, I posted this as a mod.
Today's work comes from a 2500. The plastic portion that holds the nozzle selector in place started cracking sometime after Soakemore last year. This resulted in an inability to properly hold the O-ring in place, and created a mysterious leak. It took me some time to see the crack while I frantically tried other methods of repair. (No, silicone sealant wasn't going to do anything, and neither was a new O-ring. I knew this because the O-ring already there is working just fine.)
Anyway, I tried a few nozzle replacements before settling on this:
With this as the end result:
I'm using epoxy putty not just to hold it in place and prevent leakage, but also as a nozzle guard. The first thing to take the war scuff would be the piece that used to hold the nozzle selector in place. The next would be the epoxy putty. I recommend this if you have a problem with smacking blaster fronts into hard objects, concrete, etc., although it seems to be more of a problem with some homemades.
The problem is, I didn't document which part this is, and I feel like an ass because I get annoyed when others don't document the parts they use. All I know right now is that the hole of the washer is 1/4" in diameter. It shouldn't be difficult to find something like this.
Nylon washers and spacers appear to be precision machined, which is just what we need. The surface quality is very good, and initial tests had this thing flying very close to CPS 2000 range. I may just bring this to Soakemore! The nozzle orifice is just barely under 10x, although I'm not completely sure whether the tapering helps or hinders. Our in-house physicists will have to answer that one. Based on previous discussions about conical nozzles, it should help. However, I could not find a conical nozzle of the appropriate size, and last time I tried drilling one resulted in a horrible stream. The problem is as was previously discussed: surface contact causes turbulence, but when that surface is longer than your average flat nozzle and also rough, the resulting stream is going to be horrible.
Perhaps there's further potential to be explored here. Nylon washers can be epoxied to other surfaces, such as a large hose barb, which may give us a good option for homemade nozzles. I will try to remember to update this thread if I make leeway in that area. Some types of idealized homemades are ones that can push a short, but very high performance shot that's at least on par with a CPS 2000, and we need large nozzle orifices to do that. However, a drilled endcap isn't going to get you anywhere with all that rough plastic edge.
Anyway, it's nice to have a nozzle experiment go nicely for once. Because this not only "fixed" the lack of a nozzle on the 2500 but also improved it, I posted this as a mod.