First Homemade Nearing Completion
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I have been working slowly and steadily for the past two weeks on my first homemade water gun. I am really excited that this gun is almost finished because I want it to be my main weapon in an upcoming water war. It has a completely innovative and practical design. Normally I don't like to post previews or things like this, but the gun is technically operational, so I will let it slide. This gun is not completely finished. The case needs to be completed (on the top), the trigger needs to be "recalibrated", the trigger system needs to move more smoothly (it rubs against the PVC), and the handle needs to be installed. Nevertheless, it can shoot water.
I haven't named this soaker yet, but I have been thinking of some good names. It is basically your standard CPS gun only made from PVC and steel piping. And just like every other standard CPS gun, it has a trigger. The gun does not have the handle attached yet, so the handle-like thing is actually the trigger (the handle is the pipe in the foreground. Currently the pressure chamber is the old worn out chamber from Ben's CPS homemade, but once I finish the gun I will replace it with some brand new latex rubber tubing.
This gun is actually pretty small, especially considering that it is a homemade. It is only 24 inches long and when completed with a bladder casing only about 6 inches tall (not counting the handle of course). There it is, next to an XP 150, just slightly larger. The gun is rather heavy though. Currently it is 5 pounds without any water in it, but this is from the steel piping in it (steel is very heavy). It is well balanced though.
The trigger valve is simply a 1/2" brass ball valve with a new replacement torque arm. The torque arm took a long time to make. In fact, it took me 3 designs to come up with a good one. The new torque arm was cut out with a dremel. The holes were drilled with a small drill press and then I bend it into shape with a hammer.
The trigger does activate the ball valve, but at the moment only opens the valve about three quarters of the way. This creates a ton of turbulence because it ruins the linear flow. I just have to make the trigger pull larger to fix this because I can't decrease the torque arm length anymore (I drilled two holes in the new torque arm, and the one closer to the nut needs less of a trigger pull to activate the valve all the way). The valve also lacks a return feature, but I will add one once the case is completed (it needs something to attach too). But it is functional, just not optimally functional.
The pump is connected to the trigger valve by use of 3/8" vinyl tubing. This allows each part of the gun to be completely replaceable and upgradeable. If you want a larger pump, you can replace the old pump with a new one easily. The gun is held together by nuts and bolts. Currently, only two bolts hold the two sections together, but I will hopefully add up to four for redundancy. It is held together well by two, but more will not hurt.
I hope to complete this gun within a week. Please post comments and such, I really have worked hard to make a great homemade and would like some feedback.
I haven't named this soaker yet, but I have been thinking of some good names. It is basically your standard CPS gun only made from PVC and steel piping. And just like every other standard CPS gun, it has a trigger. The gun does not have the handle attached yet, so the handle-like thing is actually the trigger (the handle is the pipe in the foreground. Currently the pressure chamber is the old worn out chamber from Ben's CPS homemade, but once I finish the gun I will replace it with some brand new latex rubber tubing.
This gun is actually pretty small, especially considering that it is a homemade. It is only 24 inches long and when completed with a bladder casing only about 6 inches tall (not counting the handle of course). There it is, next to an XP 150, just slightly larger. The gun is rather heavy though. Currently it is 5 pounds without any water in it, but this is from the steel piping in it (steel is very heavy). It is well balanced though.
The trigger valve is simply a 1/2" brass ball valve with a new replacement torque arm. The torque arm took a long time to make. In fact, it took me 3 designs to come up with a good one. The new torque arm was cut out with a dremel. The holes were drilled with a small drill press and then I bend it into shape with a hammer.
The trigger does activate the ball valve, but at the moment only opens the valve about three quarters of the way. This creates a ton of turbulence because it ruins the linear flow. I just have to make the trigger pull larger to fix this because I can't decrease the torque arm length anymore (I drilled two holes in the new torque arm, and the one closer to the nut needs less of a trigger pull to activate the valve all the way). The valve also lacks a return feature, but I will add one once the case is completed (it needs something to attach too). But it is functional, just not optimally functional.
The pump is connected to the trigger valve by use of 3/8" vinyl tubing. This allows each part of the gun to be completely replaceable and upgradeable. If you want a larger pump, you can replace the old pump with a new one easily. The gun is held together by nuts and bolts. Currently, only two bolts hold the two sections together, but I will hopefully add up to four for redundancy. It is held together well by two, but more will not hurt.
I hope to complete this gun within a week. Please post comments and such, I really have worked hard to make a great homemade and would like some feedback.
The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench
I have a recommendation to make the trigger close again(when I get around to it, im thinking of using it in my first homemade)- if you follow these steps, it should close after you let go of the trigger
1. get a bunch of elastic bands
2. wrap the elastic bands in such a way that they have force to close the valve after being pulled
3. test, just to make sure it works
If it doesnt work, you can ask around, but that should work
P.S. really like the design. Good job
Edited By Croc on 1154826895
1. get a bunch of elastic bands
2. wrap the elastic bands in such a way that they have force to close the valve after being pulled
3. test, just to make sure it works
If it doesnt work, you can ask around, but that should work
P.S. really like the design. Good job
Edited By Croc on 1154826895
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The valve can be closed with any "open trigger valve" style repair, including the use of spring (both compression and extension) or rubber/elastic bands. I was never really worried about the valve not closing all the way, in fact I am more worried about the valve opening all the way. But it still is nice to see some people thinking. I still have been messing around with the music wire, and the valve still does not open absolutely all the way, but I am not worried because it seems to be close enough.
Here are some more pictures.
Size Comparison to a CPS 2100. It is only about an inch or two longer.
Before a test shot without the bladder casing (at least 600 mL in the chamber, 15 pumps).
Close up on the trigger mechanism. The vinyl tubing leads to the pump, the wire connects the trigger to the trigger valve.
Close up on the top of the pump. The bolts connect the lower layer to the middle. Note the trigger assembly on the right.
Here are some more pictures.
Size Comparison to a CPS 2100. It is only about an inch or two longer.
Before a test shot without the bladder casing (at least 600 mL in the chamber, 15 pumps).
Close up on the trigger mechanism. The vinyl tubing leads to the pump, the wire connects the trigger to the trigger valve.
Close up on the top of the pump. The bolts connect the lower layer to the middle. Note the trigger assembly on the right.
The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench
Looks cool. What's the size of the nozzle? What previously manufactured soaker does it best compare to?
Adrian
Adrian
“To achieve a World Government it is necessary to remove from their minds their individualism, their loyalty to family traditions, national patriotism and religious dogma.”…..Brock Adams, Director, United Nations Health Organisation.
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Looks cool. What's the size of the nozzle?
Currently I have only done one test with a nozzle. All of the pictures show it with no nozzle, unless you count a 5/8" hole as a nozzle. I have been waiting until the entire soaker is finished to do in-depth testing, which will probably will happen tomorrow or Friday. The nozzle can really be any size that I want though, the nozzles are just 1/2" threaded caps with holes drilled into them.
What previously manufactured soaker does it best compare to?
I think that it best compares to the CPS 3000 or 3200, even though this soaker is smaller. I originally designed it loosely around them, but I reduced the overall length and increased the capacity by using latex rubber tubing for the bladder. I did not make it have a tracked pump because I found out that it is easier to get a higher volume pump on a non-tracked pump. I really designed this to be a "homemade" stock soaker though.
Edited By Lt. Col. Drench on 1155306313
The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench
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- Posts: 258
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Well, I tried to finish the soaker by today, but it seems that I still need to do a lot of work. I am also working on a very detailed guide for this. So far I have about 225 photos taken, and a lot of the guide is already written. I am not going to be able to complete both the guide and the soaker for at least another week now (Ben and I are going to camp for a week).
While I was testing the return feature of the trigger valve, the trigger part of the trigger assembly broke off. I guess that I should have listened to myself before, because now I absolutely have to make a new trigger assembly. It is no problem though, fortunately this is one of the simpler parts to make (by comparison to the others).
Other that, most of the soaker is complete or close to completion. Other than the return feature and obvious repair, all that I need to do is attach the grip, cover the ends, cover the trigger valve (out of ideas on how to do this at the moment though), and replace the bladder.
I did do some preliminary tests though.
Shot 1 (1/16" nozzle, 30 pumps, ~1800 mL)
Shot Time: 37 seconds
Average Output: 1.6X
Range: ~38 feet
Shot 2 (1/16" nozzle, 30 pumps, ~1800 mL)
Shot Time: 40 seconds
Average Output: ~1.5X
Range: 38 feet
Shot 3 (Riot Blast, no nozzle, 30 pumps, ~1800 mL)
Shot Time: 1.5 seconds
Average Output: ~40X
Range: Did not measure (no very far though)
Pretty good so far. Hopefully the range will increase when I switch the bladder to a new one. I think the the maximum number of pumps would be around 40 (only because the chamber casing has a set volume), which is about 2.4L in the chamber.
While I was testing the return feature of the trigger valve, the trigger part of the trigger assembly broke off. I guess that I should have listened to myself before, because now I absolutely have to make a new trigger assembly. It is no problem though, fortunately this is one of the simpler parts to make (by comparison to the others).
Other that, most of the soaker is complete or close to completion. Other than the return feature and obvious repair, all that I need to do is attach the grip, cover the ends, cover the trigger valve (out of ideas on how to do this at the moment though), and replace the bladder.
I did do some preliminary tests though.
Shot 1 (1/16" nozzle, 30 pumps, ~1800 mL)
Shot Time: 37 seconds
Average Output: 1.6X
Range: ~38 feet
Shot 2 (1/16" nozzle, 30 pumps, ~1800 mL)
Shot Time: 40 seconds
Average Output: ~1.5X
Range: 38 feet
Shot 3 (Riot Blast, no nozzle, 30 pumps, ~1800 mL)
Shot Time: 1.5 seconds
Average Output: ~40X
Range: Did not measure (no very far though)
Pretty good so far. Hopefully the range will increase when I switch the bladder to a new one. I think the the maximum number of pumps would be around 40 (only because the chamber casing has a set volume), which is about 2.4L in the chamber.
The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench
I like where this is going, a very clean CPH gun with a real trigger. I can't wait for the guide, I'm hoping to use some of your systems in another design of mine, such as the trigger and CPS system. The range is somwhat less than I had thought it would be, but maybe It will improve with the new bladder. By the way, where did you get the latex?
Once you figured out how to build it, how easy was it to actually construct?
Once you figured out how to build it, how easy was it to actually construct?
The Maple-Mountain-Marines.
Terrifying, but oddly refreshing.
-B.D.
Terrifying, but oddly refreshing.
-B.D.
My homemade includes a trigger system, but I doubt I'll have the patience and/or money for the extra materials and work required for a design such as this. A step-by-step guide would be incredibly long and detailed, and I doubt I would use one.
The LRT comes from McMaster-Carr. I'm buying a foot of a few different sizes to test a few stacking methods (not as ambitious as Ben's, but just enough to avoid wasted space). I'll be happy to have the ID of each layer the same as the OD of the inner layer, but Ben and the Drenchenator might prefer a smaller ID if the layering device works.
Edited By SilentGuy on 1155648799
The LRT comes from McMaster-Carr. I'm buying a foot of a few different sizes to test a few stacking methods (not as ambitious as Ben's, but just enough to avoid wasted space). I'll be happy to have the ID of each layer the same as the OD of the inner layer, but Ben and the Drenchenator might prefer a smaller ID if the layering device works.
Edited By SilentGuy on 1155648799
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Once you figured out how to build it, how easy was it to actually construct?
Believe or not, construction was not very difficult, but incredibly tedious. Just to do the dremeling to build the case, it probably took 2 hours or so. Many of the things that I did really had no purpose towards the construction, so a lot of time can saved. I believe that a guide would limit the amount of time needed to build something like this, but it still would need a lot of time. I was actually thinking about building a second one to see how good my guide is, how long it would take, to build a better looking one, and to also take more pictures for the guide.
By the way, where did you get the latex?
Like what SilentGuy said, you can get the tubing from McMaster, but there are other manufacturers available (Ben knows, you might want to ask him). As Ben's brother, I really only asked Ben for some tubing to use, and he gave me some extra.
The Drenchenator, also known as Lt. Col. Drench
Is it just me, or did all of Drench's pics disappear?
Nice job, tho'. Can't wait to see how this one turns out.
Nice job, tho'. Can't wait to see how this one turns out.
My Armoury: Storm 750, CPS 4100, Triple Aggressor, Blazer, SI Flash Flood (Nozzle Drilled), 100 oz. Aquapack, MONSTER X (2002), WW Argon, A.R.M. 4000 XL, MI Defender, MI Helix, Water Weapons Waveblast, CPS 2700
My "broken" Armoury: CPS 4100, XP 55
My "broken" Armoury: CPS 4100, XP 55
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