Cps issue

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Dinosaur
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Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:40 am

Hi guys it's been a while since I last posted but anyway I am having a problem with my 1000. NO matter how much times I pump it, it shoots for only half a second, I think the cps bladder is burst,but I can't seem to find a way to open it.Do you have to cut off the cap because it seems to be glued on. Any ideas?
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TheSoaker
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Re: Cps issue

Postby TheSoaker » Wed Dec 31, 2014 2:57 pm

Take a flathead screwdriver and start prying it off. Are you talking about the nozzle cap? Also if the CPS bladder was ruptured wouldn't there be water leaking from the PC casing? This might have something to do with the PRV, try pumping it slowly and see if it pressurizes.
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Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:30 pm

I'll try that, but I just thought it might have something to do with the bladder.yeah I'm talking about the nozzle cap. I've pumped it a few timesand at different pressuresensor and it's the same pressure each time so it looks like it's the valve. I want to open it to see exactly what is malfunctioning, but at the same time I don't want to wreck it
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wetmonkey442
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Re: Cps issue

Postby wetmonkey442 » Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:23 pm

If you can pump it without any leaks, but it doesn't seem to hold pressure, than it must be a malfunctioning pressure relief valve. It is located at the base of the pump, where two white plastic tubes join together before connecting to the reservoir. One of those tubes supplies water to the pump, the other tube is the pressure relief valve, which jettisons water back to the reservoir. It operates with a simple spring which has probably rusted through in your case, leaving the valve permanently open. It is possible that the spring is still intact, and that the valve is simply wedged open. You can easily test this by opening up the case, removing the reservoir, and shaking the pump assembling/lightly knocking on the outside to see if you can loosen/reset the valve. Of course, complete removal of the valve is another option, but be warned that over-pressurization of your gun is a possibility in this case.

To get the gun open, you will need to remove the nozzle cap, which is glued on in the case of some CPS 1000s. Being 16 years old at this point, the plastic is likely very brittle, and may easily break, so be gentle in your efforts to remove the cap and open the gun.
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soakinader
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Re: Cps issue

Postby soakinader » Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:29 pm

I agree. I had a CPS 1500 with the same problem- I ended up removing the PRV and putting a stronger spring back in. Works great now.

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Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Mon Jan 19, 2015 1:22 pm

Quick update :after removing several stripped and rusty screws, I am able somewhat to get at the prv, however this also seems to be glued on, does anyone know? I'm just checking, because I don't want to do anything stupid with it
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soakinader
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Re: Cps issue

Postby soakinader » Sun Jan 25, 2015 2:02 am

Dude, I'm no longer sure exactly you are talking about. The PRV should be at the base of the pump and reservoir on the CPS 1000; if I recall correctly it should be the part that sits behind when you open the gun up.

Saying the PRV is glued on is like saying the casing is screwed down. The entire check valve assembly is one hunk of solvent-welded plastic fused together; it's hacksaw or nothing.

Oh and PS: If you remove the reservoir check the intake. One of my CPS 1000 didn't have a busted check valve; it had a piece of balloon stuck on the intake that sealed off the reservoir.

Take some pictures, or if you really need help PM me and I'll take some pictures of my CPS 1000 and try to help you through it.

PPS, after all of the guns I have fixed I have never successfully repaired a gun "easily" by not opening the casing all the way. It always turns out to be much easier to open the gun completely than it is to wedge it open and try to fix it. Heh, after all this time, maybe I should make a tool for removing those darned glued nozzle covers.
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Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:52 pm

Hey guys, it's been a while, I've been sidetracked by getting into a regional championship final and a few other thing, and I just got a super soaker 300 with a broken trigger that I think needs fixing before the 1000,the front trigger part that connects to the front of the gun is broken and worn, and the handle has a chip in it, I have pictures but I don't really know how to upload them
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soakinader
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Re: Cps issue

Postby soakinader » Thu Feb 12, 2015 11:12 pm

oh yeah, the SS300 has a little flimsy spot where the handle attaches to the ball valve. The repair might get ugly.

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Re: Cps issue

Postby the oncoming storm » Fri Feb 13, 2015 10:36 am

I have a 300 and an XP 250 and can thus recommend this idea, the parts on the lever can be replaced with metal and provided that you can find an appropriate piece of it should work just fine, My 250 trigger is broken like this as it goes into the shell and I am going to steal part of my erector set to fix it.
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Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:55 am

Thanks, I was thinking of using my 250 as well for parts, but its in too good of a condition to use for parts, its still looks new! Anyway its rather hard finding repair guides far the SS 300, as I found out, there was a link o the defunct SS.Central from Aquaflash, but that link isn't working anymore. And its also quite annoying as every time I seem to try to fix one problem another surfaces, the problem with mine is ,while I have most of the parts, the hinge form the ball valve that connects the front of the lever has broken I 2 places, and a part is still in the gun, and to open the gun I have to remove several glued parts, which is terrific as me and glued on components don't really mix. I'll try minus.com, and hopefully you'll be able to see what I'm waffling about
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Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:58 am

Also another question I have about this blaster and a few others, while it would be interesting to find out (but probably more than its worth) is finding or estimating the number of SS 300s made, and other blasters as well, say on ISoaker.com even, as another category, Rarity. It might be a waste of time but I think it would be interesting to look at.
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Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Mon Feb 16, 2015 5:47 pm

Also quick question, since the lever is damaged, does anyone know how to remove the lever without destroying it? I need to open it to get at the ball valve and am unable to do so.
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soakinader
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Re: Cps issue

Postby soakinader » Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:39 pm

Hmm if you post some pictures that would be great. If there isn't a screw or a seam or whatnot, you can try to pry it apart but in the end you may have to make a cut. I don't know if it is glued or snapped together.
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Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Fri Apr 10, 2015 7:40 am

I'll try to put up pictures soon, or find a way to put them up, right now I'm being sidetracked with fixing a 300 that badly needs it, and a 3000 that's just refusing to work
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Cochise

Re: Cps issue

Postby Cochise » Wed Apr 22, 2015 1:18 pm

You have a 1000, 300, and a 3000 :shock:

I want to see pics.

CDMT
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Re: Cps issue

Postby CDMT » Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:06 pm

Image

Image

Image

 Image

 Image
 Image


As you can see from the pics I have a broken 250 and a 300. Given that Larami had a tendency to make several variants of the same design and given the closeness in design between the 250 and 300 all you really need to have happen is for the top screw to be removed for the rest of the front pivot handle to be removed.  The front pivot is held on by that single screw.  So you have 2 options.  A: you drill two holes just enough to breach the casing where I have marked in the second picture.  The first hole you should drill large enough to stick a pencil in, erasor first, into the hole to hold the top gear in place with the bottom gear.  As shown in the 5th and 6th pics.   When you unscrew the pivot the top gear unless held in place will fall aside.  As you notice I am holding it where the gears meet.  If you hold it higher it won't stay in place.  Then before inserting the pencil to hold the gear I would drill out the casing above the top gear's screw.  Before unscrewing the top screw you can get a needle with thread ready.  After removing the screw while holding the top gear in place thread the gear's screw hole with the needle and string.  Once you have threaded the gear and tied it off you can now release the hold on the top gear with the pencil.  Once you have jbwelded the pivot arm back together you then use the string and pencil tip to move the upper gear back into place.  Then once the upper gear is in place and held with the pencil tip you can carefully unthread the gear and then screw everything back together.

Or B:  you unscrew an upwards of 30 screws and then use either a chisel, razor blade or thin hacksaw to remove the glued on caps and the single screw holding on the pivot arm.

I hope this helps you out Dinosaur.

As far as posting pics just download Photobucket to your phone and signup for free. Then just click the circle in the app with the plus symbol to upload photos. You will get the option to upload or you can choose the one to take a picture. Then to post them click on one you've uploaded and then click the symbol below your photo that looks like three dots connected by a line. Then click "copy to clipboard" and then copy the link besides "IMG". Then make a post here and paste the link you copied. The picture should show up.

Dinosaur
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Re: Cps issue

Postby Dinosaur » Fri May 08, 2015 2:08 pm

Thanks a million CDMT that should help a bit, I had noticed the similarities between the 300 and 250,they were made in the same year after all.My 250 is in pristine condition so I'll leave it, but the 300s trigger is just annoying. The latch for the trigger spring has snapped so trying to fix that is a pain, not to mention the screws are stripped in the front, just enough to make it torture. But surprisingly I have most of the pieces, just have to glue them together
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marauder
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Re: Cps issue

Postby marauder » Fri May 08, 2015 4:22 pm

Just wanted to say that those are awesome pictures and thanks for posting them.

Also, I think with the mention of the stripped screws, it's always good to go back and replace old screws that don't look like they are in good shape.
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