Opening a CPS 3200

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DavidTheDankEngine
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Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:42 am

How do you remove the black hose connector from the back of the CPS 3200?

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soakinader
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby soakinader » Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:12 pm

You don't.

Nah, just kidding. Have you removed all of the screws first? If you have and it still won't come apart, chances are that it is glued or snapped on there. You will need to pry it off or possibly cut it. If you have the shell unscrewed, try twisting the shell a bit, sometimes the glue is weak on one side and you can pull the gun apart.

Also, why do you want to remove the hose connector? Do you want to open the gun? Are you trying a repair or modification?
You may not necessarily have to remove the black piece at all.
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DavidTheDankEngine
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:15 pm

I'm trying to open it to replace the pressure chamber. I've removed all of the screws. It can be pried apart in every area except where the hose connector is. So I don't have to remove it to open the gun?

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soakinader
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby soakinader » Wed Jul 09, 2014 12:32 am

Well, I don't have a CPS 3200, but I was able to remove the whole internals of the 3000 (PC, trigger, pump) without cutting at the hose connector on that. It's helpful to open the whole gun case, but not always easy and not always necessary! I've had to fix several guns where I couldn't open the entire case due to a plastic piece or stripped screw. You just have to get at the part you need to fix.

Is the pressure chamber busted?

The rest of my advice still stands. Try to twist the shell (pry the front half apart slightly, then twist the halves up/down a few times) and see if you can get the black hose connector off. If you can get one side loose, you can remove the shell or detach the connector altogether without breaking it. Annnd if you do break it, you can always glue it back on.
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DavidTheDankEngine
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:49 am

Thank you for your replies Soakinader. I've managed to twist it open. It seems that about 2 inches of the pressure chamber have ripped off. I've read that sometimes shortening the pressure chamber can increase its power because the rubber stretches more. Would that apply here, or I have I lost too much pressure chamber length for it to be useful? Would I be better off just using some LRT to make a new chamber with the same length as the original? Also, what are some methods to remove the end clamp from the pressure indicator?
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Would putting it in warm water suffice, or would pliers be my best bet?

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HBWW
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby HBWW » Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:25 am

Shortening can cause the bladder to rupture more easily, and I don't think the improvement in usable capacity (the amount of water the bladder can shoot) is worth the risk. You won't get any meaningful pressure increases either.

That said, if shortening is the only way to fix it (without spending money), I'd give it a shot.

Perhaps a Colossus mod would prevent the bladder from rupturing as easily? Not sure.

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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:56 pm

Thank you. I'll use some new tubing then. I'm pulling the clamp out with pliers but it's not coming out of the black pressure indicator. The pliers only scrape the plastic. Should I put in hot water to melt the glue first? Is there some solvent that I could use to melt the glue?

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HBWW
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby HBWW » Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:58 pm

Hot water is popular to use amongst the Nerf community. Having rarely used it myself, I'm not sure on its effectiveness in various situations. My dad did try it once when installing a sprinkler repair for a pipe, so it might help you out here. However, I'm unsure of the effects of such temperatures on latex rubber.

I've employed some fairly destructive techniques before for removing tubing off of barbs; Primarily by cutting the tube and using flathead screwdrivers to force it out. However, I'm unsure if this would work for bladders. It's worth trying however, if the destructiveness of the tube isn't a concern.

I think the easiest solution for now is to just use what's remaining, since only about 2" was lost. With new tubing, you'll have to measure and guess at the PRV and bladder stretching. However, if the older bladder ruptures, you'll have to get the new stuff anyway. I guess I just tend to prefer short-term solutions if they're non-destructive and if the supposedly better solution costs too much money.

I apologize, as I don't have that great of a mental image of what you're working with (I've never cracked open cylindrical bladders before); some more pictures could help some of us help you.

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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:53 pm


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HBWW
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby HBWW » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:38 am

The purpose of the black cylinder is to keep the tube aligned, so it should be safe to gut it in order to access the screws. You may be able to drill holes in order to access the screws, or just remove the black part entirely (using a dremel, knife, some sort of saw, etc.; be careful obviously) and find an alternative option to keep it aligned to the tube. Alternatively, you could try using a plug insert (which is basically a dead-end barb, kind of looks like this), and then clamping down with a hose clamp, although you'll need to attach something else to keep the tube aligned. If you can't find a plug insert of that size, you can just use a barb to NPT adapter (which looks something like this and a threaded endcap. (Make sure to use plenty of teflon tape for the thread, of course.)

Some other members (who've actually worked with these bladders) may be able to offer better solutions, but this is the best I can think of right now.

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soakinader
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby soakinader » Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:45 am

If there is a solvent that will dissolve the glue without wrecking the plastic/rubber, I don't know what it is and I haven't tried anything. Hot water is useless for anything but hot glue IME.
I've been able to remove the stabilizer with just a flathead screwdriver and some persistence up to this point.

In your case, since the PC is torn anyways, insert a rod (blunt nail/screwdriver) into the opposite side of the picture shown (Through the rubber) and place the face down over a clamp. Use a hammer on the edges until you find a weak spot and push the clamp out.
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DavidTheDankEngine
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:18 pm

I replaced the chamber with some LRT. The problem is that the LRT is slightly bent. The back expands, but It twists in the front without expanding. an Is there any way to remedy this? I tried cutting 2 inches off, so it's about a foot long. Yet is still twists, and now it doesn't expand to fill the entire case either. Is there some way to straighten the lrt out?
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soakinader
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby soakinader » Sun Jul 27, 2014 6:10 pm

Oh man, that LRT is waaay too long! The correct length should be about half the length of the PC.
How did you get LRT so fast? You're a modding maniac!
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DavidTheDankEngine
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:07 pm

Thank you for responding so quickly. The LRT has to be half the length of the purple chamber, so about 6.75 inches, correct?

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soakinader
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby soakinader » Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:32 am

I'm not 100% sure, because LRT acts a little differently from stock CPS chambers, but it should be a little less than half.
If you include the black clamps on both ends in the measurement, you should be shooting for the "empty" spot on the pressure gauge. Hopefully when you fill it up, it will expand all the way to the "full" end.
I haven't done as much work with LRT as some other members here have, but that's my two cents.
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DavidTheDankEngine
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Fri Aug 01, 2014 5:36 pm

I've cut the LRT to the appropriate length and I've put the black cylinder back on. Even so, the lrt balloons and gets stuck. Meanwhile the front part of the lrt just twists, occasionally even preventing it from firing. Should I put some kind of lubricant to keep the lrt from getting stuck?

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soakinader
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby soakinader » Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:02 pm

Try putting the LRT on backwards first.
Also, oil-based lubricants will destroy the LRT, so stick to silicone-based ones.
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DavidTheDankEngine
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby DavidTheDankEngine » Tue Jul 28, 2015 10:38 pm

I'm bringing this thing to pandemonium so Rob can take a look at it. I'd also like for one of you guys to attach an adapter to it for a camp shower bag, could any of you guys help me out with this? Thanks.

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soakinader
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby soakinader » Tue Aug 04, 2015 3:29 pm

I've tried my hand at making an adaptor, my current design is a friction fit which works well enough. There's no pressure to cause the hose to shoot out, just some suction from the pump. It needs to make a good seal.
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the oncoming storm
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Re: Opening a CPS 3200

Postby the oncoming storm » Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:46 pm

Good thing this is a 3200 when it comes to making an adapter, the same female threaded end from a garden hose attachment will fit perfectly.
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