CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
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CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
So today I set about on a quest to fix my newly acquired CPS 1200.
The gun was pump-shooting, so you pump the gun and the water+air shoots right out the front. I decided to take a crack at opening the gun and fixing the problem.
The screws were really rusty. I ended up drilling out two of them.
Check out my Minus page for all of the screw locations.
The pump cap was easy, I just had to slip the spine (back edge) of my knife into the gap and slide it like a wedge until the thickness pushed the cap off. It would have been hard, but I had a lot of practice and the perfect tool. Then I wedged the shell open and removed the pump for better access to the nozzle cover.
The real problem came when I tried to get the nozzle cover off. Thankfully, it was not glued, but I did spend a good deal of time trying to get the stupid thing off without just breaking it. Luckily, the plastic was quite resilient and didn't chip or snap, only bend. I did stress out the plastic a lot more than I would have liked though.
I tried all of my techniques to get this one off. Normally I twist the shell from within the nozzle cap, this helps separate one half of one side of the shell from the nozzle cover. However, I soon realized that there were two screws underneath, so that wouldn't work. I finally pried the cap just enough with a flat screwdriver that I could get another screwdriver into this screw hole:
Then I pried.. and pop! One half snaps loose... and then a little more work around the edge... and presto!
Those two dammed screws... I know where they live now.
I see you...
Now the gun seemed to be open, except that right around the PC and firing valve, the shell was stuck together. I managed to wedge the thing apart and use pliers to remove the lever rod from one half of the shell.
Surprisingly, at this point the gun worked fine. When I put everything back together, the valve gets stuck open again. And that is when I realized the problem:
The rust on this rod is preventing the plastic bit from turning easily because of the friction from where the rod sits in the shell. I can see how people would just shove a spring or a rubber band or something into the gun to fix it temporarily, but I wanted a long term fix. I wanted to use some WD-40 and remove the rust, and then smooth out the rod (and possibly the holes in the case) so that everything moves smoothly.
Here is the lever rod again (in the center) and the screwdriver points out the hole in the other half of the shell.
I couldn't find any WD-40, but I did randomly find a 9/32" drill bit lying around. By some coincidence, it was exactly the right size for widening the hole! I drilled into the hole and extracted a few shavings of yellow plastic. I drilled both sides, wiggling the drill around just enough to make the whole hole wider by just a fraction of a fraction. I closed it up... and bam! Fixed. Now the trigger opens and closes the valve every time.
At this point I took a razor blade and trimmed most of the plastic around the inside edge of the nozzle cover, in case I ever have to open it again. I popped the cover back on, and even though I removed so much of that plastic ridge, there is still no way the nozzle cover is going to come off easily. Same goes with the pump cap, I had to hammer that sucker back on. Here is the end result:
Good as new. Or at least, as good as moderately used but still working like new. And no rubber bands required!
The gun was pump-shooting, so you pump the gun and the water+air shoots right out the front. I decided to take a crack at opening the gun and fixing the problem.
The screws were really rusty. I ended up drilling out two of them.
Check out my Minus page for all of the screw locations.
The pump cap was easy, I just had to slip the spine (back edge) of my knife into the gap and slide it like a wedge until the thickness pushed the cap off. It would have been hard, but I had a lot of practice and the perfect tool. Then I wedged the shell open and removed the pump for better access to the nozzle cover.
The real problem came when I tried to get the nozzle cover off. Thankfully, it was not glued, but I did spend a good deal of time trying to get the stupid thing off without just breaking it. Luckily, the plastic was quite resilient and didn't chip or snap, only bend. I did stress out the plastic a lot more than I would have liked though.
I tried all of my techniques to get this one off. Normally I twist the shell from within the nozzle cap, this helps separate one half of one side of the shell from the nozzle cover. However, I soon realized that there were two screws underneath, so that wouldn't work. I finally pried the cap just enough with a flat screwdriver that I could get another screwdriver into this screw hole:
Then I pried.. and pop! One half snaps loose... and then a little more work around the edge... and presto!
Those two dammed screws... I know where they live now.
I see you...
Now the gun seemed to be open, except that right around the PC and firing valve, the shell was stuck together. I managed to wedge the thing apart and use pliers to remove the lever rod from one half of the shell.
Surprisingly, at this point the gun worked fine. When I put everything back together, the valve gets stuck open again. And that is when I realized the problem:
The rust on this rod is preventing the plastic bit from turning easily because of the friction from where the rod sits in the shell. I can see how people would just shove a spring or a rubber band or something into the gun to fix it temporarily, but I wanted a long term fix. I wanted to use some WD-40 and remove the rust, and then smooth out the rod (and possibly the holes in the case) so that everything moves smoothly.
Here is the lever rod again (in the center) and the screwdriver points out the hole in the other half of the shell.
I couldn't find any WD-40, but I did randomly find a 9/32" drill bit lying around. By some coincidence, it was exactly the right size for widening the hole! I drilled into the hole and extracted a few shavings of yellow plastic. I drilled both sides, wiggling the drill around just enough to make the whole hole wider by just a fraction of a fraction. I closed it up... and bam! Fixed. Now the trigger opens and closes the valve every time.
At this point I took a razor blade and trimmed most of the plastic around the inside edge of the nozzle cover, in case I ever have to open it again. I popped the cover back on, and even though I removed so much of that plastic ridge, there is still no way the nozzle cover is going to come off easily. Same goes with the pump cap, I had to hammer that sucker back on. Here is the end result:
Good as new. Or at least, as good as moderately used but still working like new. And no rubber bands required!
My friends call me Nader. My foes just run.
Photos relocated to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151868511 ... 8741427445
I find 'em, I fix 'em.
Photos relocated to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151868511 ... 8741427445
I find 'em, I fix 'em.
- SEAL
- Posts: 2537
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Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
Must be a MK1 since the nozzle cover pops off. The valve is also different than a MK2, like I have. Those marks have glued nozzle covers, and they are such a pain to remove that my 12K still has half of it attached, hahahaha.
Congrats on the repair though! If only all pump-shooting problems were so easy to fix.
Congrats on the repair though! If only all pump-shooting problems were so easy to fix.
~Hotel Oscar Golf~
We probably won't be back, but the legacy lives on.
We probably won't be back, but the legacy lives on.
Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
Yeah, mine is a mk 2 and has fragments of the nozzle cap still on it from when i snapped it into pieces. I had the same exact problem with my 2700. I solved it by putting a rubber band on it lol. Well, I commend you on a repair well done, and many soaks to come!
"The world is yours" - Nas
Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
I recommend removing all caps (pump, nozzle, etc.) before getting even the first screw out. I keep the screws in the top half of the shell anyway, and they would spill out if I didn't remove the caps first.
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Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
What a great repair! I love that you were thinking long term. That's how all of our repairs need to be. How many 1200s do you have now?
Also, why have I not seen this before? This is absolutely awesome.
Also, why have I not seen this before? This is absolutely awesome.
https://hydrowar.wordpress.com/
SEAL wrote:If you ain't bloody and muddy by the end of the day, you went to a Nerf war.
- the oncoming storm
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Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
And all in one 300 would quite simply look like a 250 but have a larger nozzle.
If you ever bother reading these, I worry for your mental sanity.
Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
Woah sweet! A larger reservoir might be in order lol.
"The world is yours" - Nas
- SEAL
- Posts: 2537
- Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:37 am
- Location: Charlotte, NC
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Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
Wait, what? Where did that drawing come from? Did you accidentally post it here?
~Hotel Oscar Golf~
We probably won't be back, but the legacy lives on.
We probably won't be back, but the legacy lives on.
- the oncoming storm
- Posts: 1407
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:10 pm
- Location: Knoxville Tn
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Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
Seal has a point
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If you ever bother reading these, I worry for your mental sanity.
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Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
Where did you find that picture? I think it's on the forum somewhere..... I ended up drawing quite a few Super Soaker concepts, based on "What would the world be like without CPS technology?". I'm not sure how many made it onto the net...
By the way, dear Minus/Meow: Stop wasting time with your stupid random chat and make your picture-hosting service suck less. Stop losing my thumbnails, they were there a few days ago. Stop making it impossible to organize, group, and tag my pictures. Random chat just connects children with pedophiles anyways. Thank you.
By the way, dear Minus/Meow: Stop wasting time with your stupid random chat and make your picture-hosting service suck less. Stop losing my thumbnails, they were there a few days ago. Stop making it impossible to organize, group, and tag my pictures. Random chat just connects children with pedophiles anyways. Thank you.
My friends call me Nader. My foes just run.
Photos relocated to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151868511 ... 8741427445
I find 'em, I fix 'em.
Photos relocated to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151868511 ... 8741427445
I find 'em, I fix 'em.
Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
My preferred image hosts are imgur and Facebook. I used to use imageshack, but they got worse over the years, randomly deleting images that went over some arbitrary/mystery bandwidth limit. Photobucket has always been a junk host. A lot of places give you what you pay for or less, but a few give more than that.
Facebook for image hosting has been pretty reliable in my experience, but you do have to watch out for urk changes. Perhaps Dropbox would do better for that, although I've never had problems with imgur.
Facebook for image hosting has been pretty reliable in my experience, but you do have to watch out for urk changes. Perhaps Dropbox would do better for that, although I've never had problems with imgur.
- martianshark
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Re: CPS 1200 open valve/stuck trigger fix
I used to use tinypic, but I wouldn't recommend it. All of my older pictures are gone.
CA99 wrote:It's funny because you can get 5 water bottles and a pencil for much less than $90.
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