Part buying time. Need advice!

[soakinader]

So here's the deal... I have a lot of water-warfare related projects on my mind right now. I need to figure out which to do and what to buy. I am planning on going to Lowe's, and ordering from Mcmaster Carr.

First Project: Power Pak: I'm getting a Power BackPak that's missing the hose and gun. So I am going to find a way to adapt the backpack connector (and my homemade gun) to some size of tubing. My question is:
-What size is the original Power Pak tubing?
-If I increase the tube size, what will happen? Increase in power? (to a degree; I am not sure how much the internals will restrict the flow). Or is it a bad idea? I'm willing to try it at least. Please note that I can buy parts for this locally, I have done this before.

My local bike shop is willing to give me free inner tubes! I'll be going back this week to pick them up. I would like to Colossus my CPS 3000 but I am think that will break the PC. (The 3000 has been previously repaired).
I am going to attempt to use the inner tubes to reinforce my Speedloader 1000 rupture; removing the stock rubber chamber would
involve opening up the heavily-glued PC (thanks to an unfortunate design!) which I do not want to do.
If push comes to shove, I will rip apart the speedloader; problem is that it is 6 1/2 inches of 1/4" thick by 1 3/8 OD tubing. So I need to find a way to get a foot of this exact size as well as whatever size I will be using for a CPH. I would prefer to order fewer, multipurpose pieces of LRT if possible. Aannnd now we are back on topic.

Basically, I want the LRT for three things: Repairing the SPL1000 if necessary, making a pure CPH, or giving the Hydro Cannon an upgrade. Massive LRT PC, external aquapack reservoir, new pump (XP 150?), laminator, multiple nozzles and a carrying strap.

And if that homemade is going to happen I need at least 2 if not 4 check valves. I do have a spring-powered homemade on my mind also.

If I do make a CPH, I would really like to try making the connector like the SC500. Basically, I would take a piece of outer-threaded PVC that is slightly smaller ID than the LRT; than cut that piece in half... I have pictures, they should all be on imageshack (from my SC500 repair thread).

So, things I need:
-JB Waterweld (JIC) (I'll buy some from crappy tire)
=Various adapters(hose barb, hose:3/4" PVC,) (think I can buy these locally)
=PVC for Hydrocannon/CPH PC case (Can buy either 3" or 2"OD locally for 2.50$ /foot. Not sure, but it's out there...)
*Check Valves (PVC) (Need enough to make 1, or 2 homemades)
*LRT (what length/ID/OD/thickness?)
*Hose for power pak (what size?)
*?

*And here is where YOU come in. I need your two cents.
What parts can I order online that would be useful to have? I am looking for Mcmaster Carr parts numbers if possible. Don't forget that I am going to Lowe's as well. What should they have that I should buy?

Thanks.

[Nemesis]

I think that as long as the hose for the power pak is larger ID than the smallest internal tube inside of it, it will have the maximum amount of flow possible. However, if you make the new hose too large ID, than air will most likely get into your shots.

[HBWW]

I would advise against higher than 1/2" ID or even 3/8". The PowerPak is not that powerful (or isn't supposed to be).

Bike tubes have issues; LRT is superior. I'm not exactly sure why since I never handled tubes, but I recall something about them not bending in the correct shape. Then again, I can never get LRT straightened out either, so I don't know.

Bladder ruptures generally cannot be fixed. It may be possible with special tools/equipment, but even that will create weak points. Bladders in general fail when weak points are created unevenly, as the water will expand along said weak point before the rest of the bladder; not good at all.

As for CPH's, I am switching to 1/2" ID for the innermost tube next time I order LRT. Stretching a 3/8" tube over 1/2" is too much trouble for me, and 3/8" itself is a joke. My CPH is quite weak (with 2 LRT layers) partially because of this and only gets good range because of good lamination. (Although I'm not sure if you'll get that much power out of 1/2" ID LRT either, even with two layers.)

[marauder]

The Stock hose on the Power Pak is probably as big as you could go. Reason being is that I think that if you went any larger than stock it wouldn't fit into the backpack, so that's probably the largest tubing you can use with the stock backpack.

[soakinader]

What size is the stock tubing??? Also, while we are at it, Isoaker, your Power Pak page says that the backpack dimensions ares 64 X 8 X 8 cm or something... that makes no sense.

I found cheap, threaded check valves! Lots of them! And lots of poly fittings and bushings and adapters oh my!
I have my choice of 1/2" or 3/4" F threaded valves for 4.99 each. Then I also have 1/2", 3/4", and 1" F threaded ball valves for 3.99, 4.99, and 5.99!
Now I just need to order some LRT. Or something.

Only thing is, I don't want to make a SuperCannon with a 4" PC. I want to get either 2" or 3" pipe and use it to upgrade my Hydrocannon, as well as make my APH. If I use 8" or more of length in my hydrocannon that is fine.

Also, on Mcmaster, the closest thing to the Speedloader 1000 PC I could find was 5234K64, which is the right ID but the thickness is half of what it should be. (it's 1/8" instead of 1/4"). Can I just double it up and see if that works? Not to mention I have to buy a min. 2 feet of the stuff. So even if I bought two feet, and used two 6" pieces to fix the Speedloader, I would still have a foot of the stuff that I don't know what I will do with.

And what is with the 80 PSI rating on one of these tubes? Is it no good for a PC then?
Here is a list of potential LRT PC candidates:

ID OD THICK PSI Lengths Part No. $/ft
1/8 5/8 1/4 80 2,5,10 5234K69 3.48
1/4 5/8 3/16 30 2,5,10 5234K403 3.89
3/8 3/4 3/16 35 2,5,10 5234K53 4.47 *
1/2 7/8 3/16 30 2,5,10 5234K56 4.83
3/4 9/8 3/16 25 2,5,10 5234K59 5.93
7/8 9/8 1/8 20 2,5,10 5234K64 5.10 SPL
1 1 1/2 1/4 30 1,2,5,10 5234K62 10.21 **


So maybe I should get the 3/8->3/4 + 3/4->9/8, (10.40/foot) (35+25) [K53+K59]
or 1/2->7/8 + 7/8->9/8 (9.93/foot) (30+20) [K56+K64]?
I think the second one makes the most sense, since I can have a 1 foot dual-layered PC (which will fit inside of a 2" or 3" piece of pipe ???), repair the speedloader, and have an extra foot of the inner piece of LRT (which by itself would make a decent PC). What do you guys think?

[marauder]

I don't know, DX has it now, but it's either 1/2 ID or 1/2 OD. I think most Super Soaker backpacks use 1/2 OD.

[HBWW]

Did you find said check valves at Lowe's? Which one? They're $6-7 where I can find them (local Lowe's and McMaster Carr), and I was only aware of McMaster having threaded ones.

[soakinader]

Thanks for the Power Pak info. I guess I will be buying 1/2" tubing either way (1/2" ID 5/8" OD or 3/8" ID 1/2" OD) ;]
No, Lowe's smallest check valve was 1/2", unthreaded, and was 5.33. I actually bought two and ended up browsing at Princess Auto that has their Power Fist brand check valves for a lower price, but with MUCH better selection of everything. These check valves can actually be unscrewed and you can replace the spring inside! So you could make an OPRV with one. Pretty awesome. I'm returning the Lowe's for sure! Edit: and I did!
Is there any reason I shouldn't just go and buy all 1/2 " pieces of everything I need? It's all polycarbonate NPT threaded goodness.
What is the part number (or link to) the McMaster Carr check valve? I went under NPT valves and I found 45275K42 , which seems to be very similar to what I have.

Now just to make a pump... I wonder where I can get nylon spacers? Also, for a CPH, should I be aiming for CPS sized pump, or can I use something bigger?
Essentially, I need to pick a size of pump that I can manage, and buy two pieces of pipe for the rod and the shaft. Ideally I will find a way to screw a bolt and some spacers into the end of the rod.

Still need to order that LRT.. CA99, what do you mean by your CPH is quite weak? According to Ben's article on the SuperCPS, using larger ID LRT gives you more deadspace and less power. If anything I should be using K403 (1/4" ID). I now have access to every different size of barb so I won't be stretching a 3/8" tube over a 1/2" barb. I believe that the idea here is to increase flow? Should I be doing that?
Also, I just had a thought. What if you used a really long bolt (or a bolt with a piece of solid plastic attached) to fill most of the deadspace leading up to the barb? Just a crazy idea.
Heck maybe I will try two different barbs!

I think I may just end up going with option 2 (K56 and K64).

I feel like it is somewhat important that the OD of the inner piece is very close to the ID of the outer piece. Except that the SuperCPS has 1/4" of space between the layers... I don't feel that using the 1"-1 1/2" LRT is the best way to go... if anything I think I would use K53 with K59 (3/8">3/4"+ 3/4">1 1/8") . That being said, I haven't built tried anything yet. I read somewhere that the space is to prevent friction though.

Speaking of friction, when I place my new PC into the Hydrocannon, it can't physically be 4" without destroying the shell. I basically want to jam a CPS 2500 equivalent inside of the Hydrocannon, make it look and work well. So my question is, if I use the K56(1/2"ID>7/8"OD) inside of a piece of 2" or 3" pipe, and it wants to expand to over 3.5 inches in diameter... then what? If I do use a smaller case, am I going to wreck the LRT or get no power or something?

Blarg. I was hoping to learn some more information in a way that doesn't involve me buying all of the different sizes of LRT and going nuts.

[soakinader]

Bump!

I'm going to order off Mcmaster in a few days. Can I pay them with paypal, and do they charge shipping? I don't see a quote for the shipping costs anywhere on the order forms.

[DX]

They always calculate shipping, so you never know what it will be until you check out. I don't know if they take Paypal, I always use a credit card. Even if they don't, you can get a Paypal debit card and still pay with your Paypal balance that way.

[atvan]

I might be worthy of note that you are going to have a fun time layering that LRT if you go with the same ID as the OD of the otheer piece.

[HBWW]

I haven't tried 1/2" ID LRT nor 1/2" barbs, so I'm not completely sure. It may also be because I put the 3/8" barb in 3/4" pipe that goes from the PC to the valve and nozzle (since I was a n00b and went with 3/4" in the PC/ball valve/nozzle area since the APH guide did the same), but I wouldn't think that larger flow over there would make performance that bad. Lamination is great, but it lacks that kick to it.

However, it should be the LRT itself, because the pump is pretty easy to operate. I can tell by the force needed to pump that there isn't all that much pressure going in. A k-modded small CPS has more kick and requires more force to pump.

[soakinader]

So, I'm buying LRT thanks to a friend on here. I want to get a whole wack of different sizes and do a little experimenting.
Here's the thing. I am definitely buying 3/8 - 3/4" LRT, along with the 3/4 - 9/8" and 7/8 - 9/8" LRT for some repairs and my Hydrocannon. However, in the name of science, I am also considering:

1/4 - 5/8 " (5234K403) Anyone use a size this small? Less unpressurized water, smaller casing size, but possible flow restriction. Could be used on a 3/8 barb. Anyone try this size?
1/2 - 7/8 " (5234K56) Just 1/2" LRT. Sorta halfway between a CPS (3/4) and your standard 3/8". Nice thing is it should be easy to throw a K62 over it. Thoughts?
1- 1 1/2 " (5234K62) This is the big kind of LRT. What I intend to find out is how much power adding this layer gives.

So basically I will try using several combination of different barbs and LRT. The only thing I am uncertain about buying is the 1/4", but it's also the cheapest. In any case, I could use some input.
Oh, and lastly those check valves I can buy locally are all NPT. I think I might need an adapter to connect to CPVC. Also, I need to find a clamp that will fit onto a Power Pak, something like 15/16" that I can reduce to 1/2" hose easily. Oh and if anyone know the SC O ring McMaster number off hand, that would be great.

[marauder]

I say buy the 1/4" LRT. It's worth experimenting with. Especially for smaller pressure chambers.

This is all the water I got out of the dead space in a Zook that I got from a Thrift Store. How gross is that?
http://hydrowar.files.wordpress.com/201 ... oka-pc.jpg