CPS 1200 Issue

[DX]

OK, I am going to attempt to replicate this with one of my 1200s and will try to match the mark and mods exactly if possible. It has become way too weird now. Only thing I don't know how to do it replicate a stuck open trigger valve on a gun that isn't stuck. Maybe I have to pull the pin a gazillion times until it doesn't return all the way? I have nothing better to do later tonight so I don't mind the work.

[SEAL]

Thanks DX. I guess I'll go ahead and remove the rest of the balloons, and see what that does. I will report back when I'm done.

[DX]

OK so I went through my 1200s and selected one that is MK2. One of those is a badass fothermucker with 80 balloons on it, but I forgot which one and had to test them to figure out what not to open. 2 more were stock MK1. The final 2 were MK2 and I chose the one that is in better condition to mod. I've got enough balloons to do a light mod and some epoxy to plug the PRV. Pictures to come tomorrow. The first task is to get the thing open, which may not come willingly since some of the screws are not in good shape.

[SEAL]

I took off all the balloons, but I haven't got a chance to test it yet, because the weather's been cold and crummy. As a matter of fact, it's snowing right now; we're supposed to get 5-10 inches! Something seems wrong...

[atvan]

lol. we already have about seven inches. yesterday was the anniversary of the big October 2008 storm too... usually the forecasts are way off, but this time, they actually got it right.

Wish it had been on Monday though...



The time has come:

[DX]

There are already 5 inches on the ground with 4-7 more called for. The 32 degree line marched to within a few miles of my house, but has backed off and parked itself below Sport Hill. It's been all snow all day while down the hill its been raining. It's funny how a few hundred feet in elevation can make the difference between bare ground and a snowpocalypse.

[atvan]

Back on topic, I hope it works.

With that cleared up, why I really posted:
11 inches. and sill snowing.

[SEAL]

We only got 5 inches, and it's warming up, so most of it should be gone in a day or two, and I'll be able to test my blaster.

[DX]

Power was lost, posting from phone. Something like 9-10 inches fell, with 5 of my trees downed and 16 more damaged. The road is blocked by trees. It's worse than Hurricane Irene.

[atvan]

Definitely. In one part of our property we got 14 inches!

Sucks about the power thing man. My mom got upset because her little dogwood tree got screwed up. The birches look like willows, and the woods is like a cave. It is really weird.


Seal, try just shooting from the porch. Or across the basement.

[SEAL]

The snow is all gone from the driveway, so I tested it. And the results? It's back to normal. So I guess it was the balloons; maybe they were too tight or something? Maybe I should try it with only 5 balloons to see if I get enough of a power increase from that. It sure is weird...

But the original problem (The reason I opened it in the first place.) with the trigger is still happening. It works if I just pull it normally, but if I'm shooting water, it always gets stuck and I have to push it back. I'm not really sure how to stop it from happening.

[atvan]

Good to know that it still works sorta. What brand were your balloons?

[Andrew]

Good to hear the PC is working!.

If trying more elastic bands (or just even stronger oneS) don't work, opening the trigger valve may find the problem. If all fails, M4's 'forward assist' mod might be the only option, short of replacing the valve assembly completely.

[atvan]

Also seal, did you use 9 or 12 inch balloons?

[SEAL]

atvan: The balloons are 12", and the brand is PartyMate. They're also made in USA.

But right now, the trigger is the worst problem; it always works fine until I shoot it, then it gets stuck. I absolutley hate it. The rubber bands don't make any difference either. I sure hope the problem isn't inside the valve, because it's sealed closed with no screws. I don't see how it could be; wouldn't it be disfunctional all the time?

[HBWW]

If the trigger slides fine otherwise (i.e. when the blaster is not pressurized), then you may simply need even more rubber bands. If space permits, you can also try setting up a spring behind the pin, a solution that should last longer than rubber bands which deteriorate quickly. In any case, keep making the closure system more aggressive until it works.

Sounds like your problem however, is lack of enough force to open the trigger. Unfortunately, with the 1200's design, it's difficult to do a whole lot about it. (Other blasters you can change how the trigger is connected, but everything on the 1200 is built together with solid plastic components, so it's not easy to mod.) Perhaps a backup/emergency trigger release would be helpful, which I ought to do for many of my own blasters.

If the trigger does not move smoothly on its own, then use a Dremel/sandpaper/file to scrape away some plastic that may be in the way. Lube may also help. This is typically completely unnecessary if you've never done any repair work on the trigger itself.

[SEAL]

Sounds like your problem however, is lack of enough force to open the trigger.

To open it? You mean to close it right? Or am I missing something?
Thanks for the advice; I think I know just the thing, but whether or not it will work remains to be seen. If everything fails, then I will probably make a hole in the side of the case, and attach a lever that will manually close the valve. It would be a real pain in the butt to use when skirmishing though.

And I may add like, 5 balloons to the PC and see what happens; it would be cool if I got a similar power boost to a blaster with 30 normal balloons (Because I assume these are not normal.).

[DX]

You'd be better off opening the valve, putting in a new spring and/or seal, and then closing it and praying that the adhesive doesn't have any leaks.

Those partymate balloons sound epic if they're that strong. I wonder if the company makes condoms...

[SEAL]

Those partymate balloons sound epic if they're that strong. I wonder if the company makes condoms...

What I wonder is, why do you want to know?

I'd have to cut the valve apart to get inside it, but I'd rather not do it unless I absolutely can't do anything on the outside. By now, I'm almost positive that the seal isn't the problem, since it works when I push the pin back. The SSC article doesn't mention anything about the spring on the inside failing though.

As for the balloons, I thought of something last night; do the balloons have to be lined up perfectly when you layer them? Because a lot of times,I just wrapped the balloon around the PC without bothering to center them. Could that be why the PC didn't want to expand?

[Andrew]

The SSC article doesn't mention anything about the spring on the inside failing though.

It can fail, just like any other spring, as it gets older. This is the spring which closes the valve and it's because of this spring ageing, that rubber band mods are required in the first place! Also, if it's rusty that can hinder its closing ability aswell.

I'd have to cut the valve apart to get inside it, but I'd rather not do it unless I absolutely can't do anything on the outside.

I agree completely, but it may be the only option left after all else fails!

If space permits, you can also try setting up a spring behind the pin, a solution that should last longer than rubber bands which deteriorate quickly. In any case, keep making the closure system more aggressive until it works.

It would be safer to try this first. If you get to the point where the trigger can no longer open the valve (due to all the springs, rubber bands etc.), but it still leaks, then there is little else you can do, other than opening the valve and checking it's internals.
Remember, water is more viscous than air, and so will require more force to push the valve closed to interrupt the flow (after it has been opened initially, the pressure difference between the internals and the atmosphere reduces, so the pressure may not shut the valve like it does when the valve is closed).

If the trigger does not move smoothly on its own, then use a Dremel/sandpaper/file to scrape away some plastic that may be in the way. Lube may also help.

Lubrication may help if you don't wan't to take the trigger valve apart. Any plastic that could obstruct (or just contact) the valve plunger or firing pin can cause friction, reducing the effective force of the spring. A misaligned firing pin can result in the same dilemma.

do the balloons have to be lined up perfectly when you layer them?

I wouldn't have thought so, If you didn't centre any of them, then probability would suggest that (after many had been placed around the PC) the force on the PC would be almost uniform across its entire surface, but some experimentation may help you determine if that was the cause. If it was, then that information would be extremely valuable to others who want to do some K-modding.