Here's a few images for you guys. I opened up the broken cps 2700 I got for $5 and this is what I found. There's no cracks or anything, and the trigger plate seals just fine, if a little weakly. I suspect the leaking might be the connection between the pc and the trigger valve because one of the o-rings is missing. Expect more on the fixes soon. In the mean time, here's some good pictures of the inside of the nozzle. It uses the rubber "laminator wall" at the end of a long, hollow tube. There is also a second, plastic, showerhead-style wall nearer to the tip of the nozzle. In between the two a mesh screen is sandwiched.
Cps 2700 trigger valve and nozzle pictures.
Re: Cps 2700 trigger valve and nozzle pictures.
Interesting to see the laminator walls set-up on the CPS2700. I hadn't expected to see differing numbers and sizes of holes depending on the position of the wall, not to mention the screen between the walls. Thanks for sharing the pics and good luck with your repairs! Do keep us informed of your progress!
Soak on!
Soak on!
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Re: Cps 2700 trigger valve and nozzle pictures.
Well it turns out the deadly pressure leak was the easiest fix of all. I had a tiny little hairline crack down the front of the valve, now permenantly sealed with plumbers goop. Now that it's fixed, a new problem has arisen: the nozzle valve refuses to close itself again during firing, and the trigger sometimes does nothing in the way of opening up the valve unless I stick a metal rod in there and pull with two hands. Is the pressure in this blaster so high that it would really take that much force to open up the valve? There's no way of replacing the spring inside the valve besides sawing apart the metal rod, and there's nothing to add rubber bands or something like that to close the valve again. But even if I could get it to reliably close when the trigger is released, that still leaves me with a trigger that no human being can pull, not even with both thumbs.
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